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2025-05-18 21:52:48 -

How to Plant the Perfect Kitchen Garden in a Small Space

We may earn a commission from links on this page.The reality of home gardening is that you rarely have as much space as you’d like. For many people, all they have is one raised 4x8 foot bed. While that doesn’t feel like a lot of space, you can fit a whole lot of plants into 32 square feet. With a smaller space, you just have to find new and inventive ways to get more variety in your beds. Around where I live, we call this "cramscaping. "Take advantage of plant timing and growth patternsEvery vegetable and fruit out there has recommended spacing, and in an ideal world, you’d accommodate them perfectly. However, you can plant closer if needed, while understanding your plants might not be as productive as they’d be if they had more space to grow to their full potential.

kohnrabi growing underneath beans, which are trellised up.
Credit: Amanda Blum

To get the most out of limited space, take advantage of space above and below the soil. For instance, radishes and carrots are mostly below ground, while tomatoes are above ground. Thus, they are great to grow next to one another. Grow beets alongside peas and large squash with climbing beans. Also consider that plants mature at different rates. Lettuce will grow quickly, and be ready for harvest in mere weeks, while eggplants take all summer. If you plant them at the same time when they’re both small, you’ll harvest your lettuce in time to free up space for your eggplants to spread out. Trellising is essential

help plants grow upward using trellises, creating horizontal space
Credit: Amanda Blum

When you don’t have as much horizontal space, you have to take advantage of the vertical space. You’ll need to keep plants from sprawling on the ground, and the primary way to do that is by training them up. Choose indeterminate tomatoesinstead of determinateso they continue to grow upwards despite pruning. Then prune everything but a few stems and train them onto a tall trellis. Use an obelisk or netting to provide structure for climbing beans, peas, or cucumbers. IYellow squash and zucchini can also be trained to grow upwards along a trellis, as can pumpkins and melons. Remember, though, that items on trellises have to be within reach: If you plant a trellis of green beans in the dead center of your bed, you’re not going to be able to reach those beans without stepping on other plants. So trellised plants should be located close enough to the edge of the bed to be accessed. Corners and edges make the most sense. For low trellises such as for squash, you can place them closer to the middle, but test your reach before finalizing planting. Start with the largest plants

Start with an empty 4x8 bedCredit: Amanda Blum

Begin by sketching out a grid for your bed, foot by foot, and a list of everything you’d like to plant. Lay in the largest plants first: in this case, tomatoes. Since they’ll be the tallest, place them in the corners or close to the edge of the bed, so they’re not shading anything. Now consider anything that needs a wide trellis, like peas and cucumbers or beans. Those should live at the edge of the bed, but leave space on either side of the trellis so you can reach what’s on the other side. These trellises are good at the short ends of the bed, so they don’t prevent you from reaching in. Now, start working your way down the list of plants in descending size. I placed eggplants and peppers, which will all need a trellis, on either side. For the center, which is hard to reach, I chose plants that don’t need support and won’t get too tall, but are larger: kale, chard, and onions. What’s left to plan for are short crops that will grow quickly like lettuce, radishes, beets, and carrots. Lettuce is a great buffer between nightshades like eggplant and cruciferous plants like chard and kale, so you can add heads of various lettuces. I don’t worry about root vegetables yet. I then add some beneficial flowers like nasturtium, alyssum and marigolds throughout, particularly hanging over the edges of the bed. These flowers will trap aphids, keep pests at bay, and add color. Next, I lay in herbs like basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro. In addition to being great in the kitchen, these all help control pests. These herbs can be sprinkled throughout the bed, but basil and dill do best next to nightshades. Now, in all the spaces left, I backfill with root vegetables: rows of carrots, circles of radishes, and blocks of beets. Plant established seedlings first, then seeds

Sketch of the finished garden.
Credit: Amanda Blum

When it comes time to plant, work from the inside out. Start with the plants in the dead center of the bed, and work towards the outside by putting your seedlings into the ground. Once your starts are planted, go back and work sector by sector, seeding things like beets and radishes. Working in this way allows you to see what you’ve already done, so you don’t accidentally overseed an area you’ve already worked on. Water everything well and then simply pay attention. Prune plants as soon as they need to be pruned. As plants need to be harvested, replace them or allow larger plants to infill the area. Keep your bed moist, but not wet, watering at the root —and use a fish fertilizer every other week, adding it to your water. Over the season, some plants might do better than others, and you may need to replace them. Because of the tight spacing, eggplants might not get enough sun where they are, or lettuce might get too much. You’ll learn over the season where each plant might succeed, and you should chart it for next year. Each season is another opportunity to learn about your yard, sun profile, and soil, and each season your vegetable garden—no matter how small—will get better.
#how #plant #perfect #kitchen #garden

How to Plant the Perfect Kitchen Garden in a Small Space
We may earn a commission from links on this page.The reality of home gardening is that you rarely have as much space as you’d like. For many people, all they have is one raised 4x8 foot bed. While that doesn’t feel like a lot of space, you can fit a whole lot of plants into 32 square feet. With a smaller space, you just have to find new and inventive ways to get more variety in your beds. Around where I live, we call this "cramscaping. "Take advantage of plant timing and growth patternsEvery vegetable and fruit out there has recommended spacing, and in an ideal world, you’d accommodate them perfectly. However, you can plant closer if needed, while understanding your plants might not be as productive as they’d be if they had more space to grow to their full potential. kohnrabi growing underneath beans, which are trellised up. Credit: Amanda Blum To get the most out of limited space, take advantage of space above and below the soil. For instance, radishes and carrots are mostly below ground, while tomatoes are above ground. Thus, they are great to grow next to one another. Grow beets alongside peas and large squash with climbing beans. Also consider that plants mature at different rates. Lettuce will grow quickly, and be ready for harvest in mere weeks, while eggplants take all summer. If you plant them at the same time when they’re both small, you’ll harvest your lettuce in time to free up space for your eggplants to spread out. Trellising is essential help plants grow upward using trellises, creating horizontal space Credit: Amanda Blum When you don’t have as much horizontal space, you have to take advantage of the vertical space. You’ll need to keep plants from sprawling on the ground, and the primary way to do that is by training them up. Choose indeterminate tomatoesinstead of determinateso they continue to grow upwards despite pruning. Then prune everything but a few stems and train them onto a tall trellis. Use an obelisk or netting to provide structure for climbing beans, peas, or cucumbers. IYellow squash and zucchini can also be trained to grow upwards along a trellis, as can pumpkins and melons. Remember, though, that items on trellises have to be within reach: If you plant a trellis of green beans in the dead center of your bed, you’re not going to be able to reach those beans without stepping on other plants. So trellised plants should be located close enough to the edge of the bed to be accessed. Corners and edges make the most sense. For low trellises such as for squash, you can place them closer to the middle, but test your reach before finalizing planting. Start with the largest plants Start with an empty 4x8 bedCredit: Amanda Blum Begin by sketching out a grid for your bed, foot by foot, and a list of everything you’d like to plant. Lay in the largest plants first: in this case, tomatoes. Since they’ll be the tallest, place them in the corners or close to the edge of the bed, so they’re not shading anything. Now consider anything that needs a wide trellis, like peas and cucumbers or beans. Those should live at the edge of the bed, but leave space on either side of the trellis so you can reach what’s on the other side. These trellises are good at the short ends of the bed, so they don’t prevent you from reaching in. Now, start working your way down the list of plants in descending size. I placed eggplants and peppers, which will all need a trellis, on either side. For the center, which is hard to reach, I chose plants that don’t need support and won’t get too tall, but are larger: kale, chard, and onions. What’s left to plan for are short crops that will grow quickly like lettuce, radishes, beets, and carrots. Lettuce is a great buffer between nightshades like eggplant and cruciferous plants like chard and kale, so you can add heads of various lettuces. I don’t worry about root vegetables yet. I then add some beneficial flowers like nasturtium, alyssum and marigolds throughout, particularly hanging over the edges of the bed. These flowers will trap aphids, keep pests at bay, and add color. Next, I lay in herbs like basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro. In addition to being great in the kitchen, these all help control pests. These herbs can be sprinkled throughout the bed, but basil and dill do best next to nightshades. Now, in all the spaces left, I backfill with root vegetables: rows of carrots, circles of radishes, and blocks of beets. Plant established seedlings first, then seeds Sketch of the finished garden. Credit: Amanda Blum When it comes time to plant, work from the inside out. Start with the plants in the dead center of the bed, and work towards the outside by putting your seedlings into the ground. Once your starts are planted, go back and work sector by sector, seeding things like beets and radishes. Working in this way allows you to see what you’ve already done, so you don’t accidentally overseed an area you’ve already worked on. Water everything well and then simply pay attention. Prune plants as soon as they need to be pruned. As plants need to be harvested, replace them or allow larger plants to infill the area. Keep your bed moist, but not wet, watering at the root —and use a fish fertilizer every other week, adding it to your water. Over the season, some plants might do better than others, and you may need to replace them. Because of the tight spacing, eggplants might not get enough sun where they are, or lettuce might get too much. You’ll learn over the season where each plant might succeed, and you should chart it for next year. Each season is another opportunity to learn about your yard, sun profile, and soil, and each season your vegetable garden—no matter how small—will get better. #how #plant #perfect #kitchen #garden

LIFEHACKER.COM

How to Plant the Perfect Kitchen Garden in a Small Space
We may earn a commission from links on this page.The reality of home gardening is that you rarely have as much space as you’d like. For many people, all they have is one raised 4x8 foot bed. While that doesn’t feel like a lot of space, you can fit a whole lot of plants into 32 square feet. With a smaller space, you just have to find new and inventive ways to get more variety in your beds. Around where I live, we call this "cramscaping. "Take advantage of plant timing and growth patternsEvery vegetable and fruit out there has recommended spacing (for instance, tomatoes should be 18 inches apart), and in an ideal world, you’d accommodate them perfectly. However, you can plant closer if needed, while understanding your plants might not be as productive as they’d be if they had more space to grow to their full potential. kohnrabi growing underneath beans, which are trellised up. Credit: Amanda Blum To get the most out of limited space, take advantage of space above and below the soil. For instance, radishes and carrots are mostly below ground, while tomatoes are above ground. Thus, they are great to grow next to one another. Grow beets alongside peas and large squash with climbing beans. Also consider that plants mature at different rates. Lettuce will grow quickly, and be ready for harvest in mere weeks, while eggplants take all summer. If you plant them at the same time when they’re both small, you’ll harvest your lettuce in time to free up space for your eggplants to spread out. Trellising is essential help plants grow upward using trellises, creating horizontal space Credit: Amanda Blum When you don’t have as much horizontal space, you have to take advantage of the vertical space. You’ll need to keep plants from sprawling on the ground, and the primary way to do that is by training them up. Choose indeterminate tomatoes (which are more vine-like) instead of determinate (or "bush" tomatoes) so they continue to grow upwards despite pruning. Then prune everything but a few stems and train them onto a tall trellis. Use an obelisk or netting to provide structure for climbing beans, peas, or cucumbers. IYellow squash and zucchini can also be trained to grow upwards along a trellis, as can pumpkins and melons. Remember, though, that items on trellises have to be within reach: If you plant a trellis of green beans in the dead center of your bed, you’re not going to be able to reach those beans without stepping on other plants. So trellised plants should be located close enough to the edge of the bed to be accessed. Corners and edges make the most sense. For low trellises such as for squash, you can place them closer to the middle, but test your reach before finalizing planting. Start with the largest plants Start with an empty 4x8 bed (I left last year's nasturtiums.) Credit: Amanda Blum Begin by sketching out a grid for your bed, foot by foot, and a list of everything you’d like to plant. Lay in the largest plants first: in this case, tomatoes. Since they’ll be the tallest, place them in the corners or close to the edge of the bed, so they’re not shading anything. Now consider anything that needs a wide trellis, like peas and cucumbers or beans. Those should live at the edge of the bed, but leave space on either side of the trellis so you can reach what’s on the other side. These trellises are good at the short ends of the bed, so they don’t prevent you from reaching in. Now, start working your way down the list of plants in descending size. I placed eggplants and peppers, which will all need a trellis, on either side. For the center, which is hard to reach, I chose plants that don’t need support and won’t get too tall, but are larger: kale, chard, and onions. What’s left to plan for are short crops that will grow quickly like lettuce, radishes, beets, and carrots. Lettuce is a great buffer between nightshades like eggplant and cruciferous plants like chard and kale, so you can add heads of various lettuces. I don’t worry about root vegetables yet. I then add some beneficial flowers like nasturtium, alyssum and marigolds throughout, particularly hanging over the edges of the bed. These flowers will trap aphids, keep pests at bay, and add color. Next, I lay in herbs like basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro. In addition to being great in the kitchen, these all help control pests. These herbs can be sprinkled throughout the bed, but basil and dill do best next to nightshades. Now, in all the spaces left, I backfill with root vegetables: rows of carrots, circles of radishes, and blocks of beets. Plant established seedlings first, then seeds Sketch of the finished garden. Credit: Amanda Blum When it comes time to plant, work from the inside out. Start with the plants in the dead center of the bed, and work towards the outside by putting your seedlings into the ground. Once your starts are planted, go back and work sector by sector, seeding things like beets and radishes. Working in this way allows you to see what you’ve already done, so you don’t accidentally overseed an area you’ve already worked on. Water everything well and then simply pay attention. Prune plants as soon as they need to be pruned. As plants need to be harvested, replace them or allow larger plants to infill the area. Keep your bed moist, but not wet, watering at the root —and use a fish fertilizer every other week, adding it to your water. Over the season, some plants might do better than others, and you may need to replace them. Because of the tight spacing, eggplants might not get enough sun where they are, or lettuce might get too much. You’ll learn over the season where each plant might succeed, and you should chart it for next year. Each season is another opportunity to learn about your yard, sun profile, and soil, and each season your vegetable garden—no matter how small—will get better.

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2025-05-13 13:00:53 -

#333;">These Vegetables Require Less Water Than Most
Everything is more expensive this year, and that likely includes utilities like your water bill.
While growing vegetables in your yard can be enchanting and empowering, it isn’t very efficient (compared to farms) in terms of water usage.
There are a number of ways to become more efficient and sustainable, including using drip irrigation, but another way is to only plant vegetables that don't need too much water to begin with.
Watering at the root is keyBefore I get to the specific vegetables, it's important to go over a few general watering tips.Remember that vegetables get hydration through their roots, which live underground.
Watering from above, like a hose or sprinkler, has problems: you’re getting the plants wet more than the roots, which creates conditions for disease spread; you’re watering less precisely, therefore wasting water; and the impact of the water against the dirt causes droplets to bounce back up with whatever fungus or viruses are in the dirt, also spreading disease.
Watering gently and consistently at ground level with drip irrigation is the best option for both the plant and your wallet. To ensure you’re watering efficiently, group plants with similar watering needs together in your garden, so you can set the drip appropriately to water less. But even more important is remembering that roots grow over time.
A new seedling has shallow roots, whereas an end-of-season plant has deeply established roots.
More roots means that the plant can absorb more water from deeper underground.
Less roots means less hydration from the soil, so more water is needed at a shallower depth.
(Though some vegetables, like corn and lettuce, will always be shallow rooted, and thus aren’t good candidates for less water.)Hothouse plantsAccording to Oregon State University, a tomato plant's need for watering is negated by the deep roots the plants establish over the season.
As above, you want to water sufficiently early in the season as roots are established while taking care not to over water, which will result in those roots staying close to the surface.
If the plant needs water, those roots will grow deeper in search of moisture.
Reducing water greatly, if not cutting it off entirely mid-season, shouldn’t harm your harvest.
The lack of surface water will reduce disease spread, and tomatoes will ripen if you reduce their watering.
It’s not only tomatoes, either: Squash, which includes zucchini, summer and winter squash, as well as melons, eggplants, and hot peppers all behave the same in terms of water needs and roots. Beans

Credit: Amanda Blum

Most beans, particularly pole beans, have adapted to drought conditions over time.
As such, they can survive and produce flowers and fruit with minimal moisture.
Beans require water to germinate, so if you direct sow, ensure the seeds have consistent moisture levels.
Once germinated, you can reduce (but not eliminate) water.
Since beans have such a short season (usually 60 days or less), they require less water simply by existing for less time.
Less moisture is going to reduce common bean problems like powdery mildew, a quickly spreading surface fungus.Chard and okra

Credit: Amanda Blum

For some heat hardier vegetables like chard and okra, they still require water, but do better with weekly or every-other-weekly deep watering, as opposed to daily drip.
Okra is native to drier climates and prefers less water.
The deep roots of the plant allow it to draw enough water from the soil to sustain itself.
Chard and kale can use their huge leaves to shade the ground, which is an effective form of moisture retention.
Occasional deep waterings will be enough for the plant to continue growing.Blueberries prefer less moistureI know, blueberries are a fruit and not a vegetable, but I felt compelled to include the advice here anyway.
Consider it a bonus tip.
A few years ago, Micah Geiselman, a blueberry farmer from Morning Shade Farm in Canby came to inspect my many bushes, and he had surprising advice: “People over-water their blueberries,” he explained to me.
They appreciate good drainage and do better with less water. I’ve since changed the elevation of my blueberries to ensure better drainage and moved watering lines further away—the results were astounding.
I experienced better yields, but the berries themselves were plumper and better tasting.
This isn’t conclusive, of course, since there are too many variables to account for, but I take the advice of a blueberry expert seriously.
#666;">المصدر: https://lifehacker.com/home/these-vegetables-require-less-water?utm_medium=RSS" style="color: #0066cc; text-decoration: none;">lifehacker.com
#0066cc;">#these #vegetables #require #less #water #than #most #everything #more #expensive #this #year #and #that #likely #includes #utilities #like #your #billwhile #growing #yard #can #enchanting #empowering #isnt #very #efficient #compared #farms #terms #usagethere #are #number #ways #become #sustainable #including #using #drip #irrigation #but #another #way #only #plant #don039t #need #too #much #begin #withwatering #the #root #keybefore #get #specific #it039s #important #over #few #general #watering #tipsremember #hydration #through #their #roots #which #live #undergroundwatering #from #above #hose #sprinkler #has #problems #youre #getting #plants #wet #creates #conditions #for #disease #spread #precisely #therefore #wasting #impact #against #dirt #causes #droplets #bounce #back #with #whatever #fungus #viruses #also #spreading #diseasewatering #gently #consistently #ground #level #best #option #both #walletto #ensure #efficiently #group #similar #needs #together #garden #you #set #appropriately #lessbut #even #remembering #grow #timea #new #seedling #shallow #whereas #endofseason #deeply #established #rootsmore #means #absorb #deeper #undergroundless #soil #needed #shallower #depththough #some #corn #lettuce #will #always #rooted #thus #arent #good #candidates #waterhothouse #plantsaccording #oregon #state #university #tomato #plant039s #negated #deep #establish #seasonas #want #sufficiently #early #season #while #taking #care #not #result #those #staying #close #surfaceif #search #moisturereducing #greatly #cutting #off #entirely #midseason #shouldnt #harm #harvestthe #lack #surface #reduce #tomatoes #ripen #wateringits #either #squash #zucchini #summer #winter #well #melons #eggplants #hot #peppers #all #behave #same #rootsbeans #credit #amanda #blum #beans #particularly #pole #have #adapted #drought #timeas #such #they #survive #produce #flowers #fruit #minimal #moisturebeans #germinate #direct #sow #seeds #consistent #moisture #levelsonce #germinated #eliminate #watersince #short #usually #days #simply #existing #timeless #going #common #bean #powdery #mildew #quickly #funguschard #okra #heat #hardier #chard #still #better #weekly #everyotherweekly #opposed #daily #dripokra #native #drier #climates #prefers #waterthe #allow #draw #enough #sustain #itselfchard #kale #use #huge #leaves #shade #effective #form #retentionoccasional #waterings #continue #growingblueberries #prefer #moisturei #know #blueberries #vegetable #felt #compelled #include #advice #here #anywayconsider #bonus #tipa #years #ago #micah #geiselman #blueberry #farmer #morning #farm #canby #came #inspect #many #bushes #had #surprising #people #overwater #explained #methey #appreciate #drainage #waterive #since #changed #elevation #moved #lines #further #awaythe #results #were #astoundingi #experienced #yields #berries #themselves #plumper #tastingthis #conclusive #course #there #variables #account #take #expert #seriously

These Vegetables Require Less Water Than Most
Everything is more expensive this year, and that likely includes utilities like your water bill. While growing vegetables in your yard can be enchanting and empowering, it isn’t very efficient (compared to farms) in terms of water usage. There are a number of ways to become more efficient and sustainable, including using drip irrigation, but another way is to only plant vegetables that don't need too much water to begin with. Watering at the root is keyBefore I get to the specific vegetables, it's important to go over a few general watering tips.Remember that vegetables get hydration through their roots, which live underground. Watering from above, like a hose or sprinkler, has problems: you’re getting the plants wet more than the roots, which creates conditions for disease spread; you’re watering less precisely, therefore wasting water; and the impact of the water against the dirt causes droplets to bounce back up with whatever fungus or viruses are in the dirt, also spreading disease. Watering gently and consistently at ground level with drip irrigation is the best option for both the plant and your wallet. To ensure you’re watering efficiently, group plants with similar watering needs together in your garden, so you can set the drip appropriately to water less. But even more important is remembering that roots grow over time. A new seedling has shallow roots, whereas an end-of-season plant has deeply established roots. More roots means that the plant can absorb more water from deeper underground. Less roots means less hydration from the soil, so more water is needed at a shallower depth. (Though some vegetables, like corn and lettuce, will always be shallow rooted, and thus aren’t good candidates for less water.)Hothouse plantsAccording to Oregon State University, a tomato plant's need for watering is negated by the deep roots the plants establish over the season. As above, you want to water sufficiently early in the season as roots are established while taking care not to over water, which will result in those roots staying close to the surface. If the plant needs water, those roots will grow deeper in search of moisture. Reducing water greatly, if not cutting it off entirely mid-season, shouldn’t harm your harvest. The lack of surface water will reduce disease spread, and tomatoes will ripen if you reduce their watering. It’s not only tomatoes, either: Squash, which includes zucchini, summer and winter squash, as well as melons, eggplants, and hot peppers all behave the same in terms of water needs and roots. Beans Credit: Amanda Blum Most beans, particularly pole beans, have adapted to drought conditions over time. As such, they can survive and produce flowers and fruit with minimal moisture. Beans require water to germinate, so if you direct sow, ensure the seeds have consistent moisture levels. Once germinated, you can reduce (but not eliminate) water. Since beans have such a short season (usually 60 days or less), they require less water simply by existing for less time. Less moisture is going to reduce common bean problems like powdery mildew, a quickly spreading surface fungus.Chard and okra Credit: Amanda Blum For some heat hardier vegetables like chard and okra, they still require water, but do better with weekly or every-other-weekly deep watering, as opposed to daily drip. Okra is native to drier climates and prefers less water. The deep roots of the plant allow it to draw enough water from the soil to sustain itself. Chard and kale can use their huge leaves to shade the ground, which is an effective form of moisture retention. Occasional deep waterings will be enough for the plant to continue growing.Blueberries prefer less moistureI know, blueberries are a fruit and not a vegetable, but I felt compelled to include the advice here anyway. Consider it a bonus tip. A few years ago, Micah Geiselman, a blueberry farmer from Morning Shade Farm in Canby came to inspect my many bushes, and he had surprising advice: “People over-water their blueberries,” he explained to me. They appreciate good drainage and do better with less water. I’ve since changed the elevation of my blueberries to ensure better drainage and moved watering lines further away—the results were astounding. I experienced better yields, but the berries themselves were plumper and better tasting. This isn’t conclusive, of course, since there are too many variables to account for, but I take the advice of a blueberry expert seriously.
المصدر: lifehacker.com
#these #vegetables #require #less #water #than #most #everything #more #expensive #this #year #and #that #likely #includes #utilities #like #your #billwhile #growing #yard #can #enchanting #empowering #isnt #very #efficient #compared #farms #terms #usagethere #are #number #ways #become #sustainable #including #using #drip #irrigation #but #another #way #only #plant #don039t #need #too #much #begin #withwatering #the #root #keybefore #get #specific #it039s #important #over #few #general #watering #tipsremember #hydration #through #their #roots #which #live #undergroundwatering #from #above #hose #sprinkler #has #problems #youre #getting #plants #wet #creates #conditions #for #disease #spread #precisely #therefore #wasting #impact #against #dirt #causes #droplets #bounce #back #with #whatever #fungus #viruses #also #spreading #diseasewatering #gently #consistently #ground #level #best #option #both #walletto #ensure #efficiently #group #similar #needs #together #garden #you #set #appropriately #lessbut #even #remembering #grow #timea #new #seedling #shallow #whereas #endofseason #deeply #established #rootsmore #means #absorb #deeper #undergroundless #soil #needed #shallower #depththough #some #corn #lettuce #will #always #rooted #thus #arent #good #candidates #waterhothouse #plantsaccording #oregon #state #university #tomato #plant039s #negated #deep #establish #seasonas #want #sufficiently #early #season #while #taking #care #not #result #those #staying #close #surfaceif #search #moisturereducing #greatly #cutting #off #entirely #midseason #shouldnt #harm #harvestthe #lack #surface #reduce #tomatoes #ripen #wateringits #either #squash #zucchini #summer #winter #well #melons #eggplants #hot #peppers #all #behave #same #rootsbeans #credit #amanda #blum #beans #particularly #pole #have #adapted #drought #timeas #such #they #survive #produce #flowers #fruit #minimal #moisturebeans #germinate #direct #sow #seeds #consistent #moisture #levelsonce #germinated #eliminate #watersince #short #usually #days #simply #existing #timeless #going #common #bean #powdery #mildew #quickly #funguschard #okra #heat #hardier #chard #still #better #weekly #everyotherweekly #opposed #daily #dripokra #native #drier #climates #prefers #waterthe #allow #draw #enough #sustain #itselfchard #kale #use #huge #leaves #shade #effective #form #retentionoccasional #waterings #continue #growingblueberries #prefer #moisturei #know #blueberries #vegetable #felt #compelled #include #advice #here #anywayconsider #bonus #tipa #years #ago #micah #geiselman #blueberry #farmer #morning #farm #canby #came #inspect #many #bushes #had #surprising #people #overwater #explained #methey #appreciate #drainage #waterive #since #changed #elevation #moved #lines #further #awaythe #results #were #astoundingi #experienced #yields #berries #themselves #plumper #tastingthis #conclusive #course #there #variables #account #take #expert #seriously

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These Vegetables Require Less Water Than Most
Everything is more expensive this year, and that likely includes utilities like your water bill. While growing vegetables in your yard can be enchanting and empowering, it isn’t very efficient (compared to farms) in terms of water usage. There are a number of ways to become more efficient and sustainable, including using drip irrigation, but another way is to only plant vegetables that don't need too much water to begin with. Watering at the root is keyBefore I get to the specific vegetables, it's important to go over a few general watering tips.Remember that vegetables get hydration through their roots, which live underground. Watering from above, like a hose or sprinkler, has problems: you’re getting the plants wet more than the roots, which creates conditions for disease spread; you’re watering less precisely, therefore wasting water; and the impact of the water against the dirt causes droplets to bounce back up with whatever fungus or viruses are in the dirt, also spreading disease. Watering gently and consistently at ground level with drip irrigation is the best option for both the plant and your wallet. To ensure you’re watering efficiently, group plants with similar watering needs together in your garden, so you can set the drip appropriately to water less. But even more important is remembering that roots grow over time. A new seedling has shallow roots, whereas an end-of-season plant has deeply established roots. More roots means that the plant can absorb more water from deeper underground. Less roots means less hydration from the soil, so more water is needed at a shallower depth. (Though some vegetables, like corn and lettuce, will always be shallow rooted, and thus aren’t good candidates for less water.)Hothouse plantsAccording to Oregon State University, a tomato plant's need for watering is negated by the deep roots the plants establish over the season. As above, you want to water sufficiently early in the season as roots are established while taking care not to over water, which will result in those roots staying close to the surface. If the plant needs water, those roots will grow deeper in search of moisture. Reducing water greatly, if not cutting it off entirely mid-season, shouldn’t harm your harvest. The lack of surface water will reduce disease spread, and tomatoes will ripen if you reduce their watering. It’s not only tomatoes, either: Squash, which includes zucchini, summer and winter squash, as well as melons, eggplants, and hot peppers all behave the same in terms of water needs and roots. Beans Credit: Amanda Blum Most beans, particularly pole beans, have adapted to drought conditions over time. As such, they can survive and produce flowers and fruit with minimal moisture. Beans require water to germinate, so if you direct sow, ensure the seeds have consistent moisture levels. Once germinated, you can reduce (but not eliminate) water. Since beans have such a short season (usually 60 days or less), they require less water simply by existing for less time. Less moisture is going to reduce common bean problems like powdery mildew, a quickly spreading surface fungus.Chard and okra Credit: Amanda Blum For some heat hardier vegetables like chard and okra, they still require water, but do better with weekly or every-other-weekly deep watering, as opposed to daily drip. Okra is native to drier climates and prefers less water. The deep roots of the plant allow it to draw enough water from the soil to sustain itself. Chard and kale can use their huge leaves to shade the ground, which is an effective form of moisture retention. Occasional deep waterings will be enough for the plant to continue growing.Blueberries prefer less moistureI know, blueberries are a fruit and not a vegetable, but I felt compelled to include the advice here anyway. Consider it a bonus tip. A few years ago, Micah Geiselman, a blueberry farmer from Morning Shade Farm in Canby came to inspect my many bushes, and he had surprising advice: “People over-water their blueberries,” he explained to me. They appreciate good drainage and do better with less water. I’ve since changed the elevation of my blueberries to ensure better drainage and moved watering lines further away—the results were astounding. I experienced better yields, but the berries themselves were plumper and better tasting. This isn’t conclusive, of course, since there are too many variables to account for, but I take the advice of a blueberry expert seriously.

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2025-05-13 11:44:52 -

All the Gardening Tasks I’m Tackling in May
There is no place more joyous than a garden center in May.
The shelves are full of annuals, vegetables, and perennials ready to go home with you.
Gardeners everywhere are waiting with bated breath, trying to find the perfect day to get plants in the ground.
Pops of color are emerging as tulips, irises, peonies, and lilacs fill yards.
What you do this month will determine how successful your summer garden is, so strap into your overalls, grab your sunhat and spade, and get outside.
Let's install a summer garden.
I'll go over the maintenance tasks you should tackle first, then get into the details on what you should plant and how to do it.Perform a few garden maintenance tasks firstYour watering systems may have taken a hit during winter, so it's vital to check each line before you turn on irrigation for the summer.
Often, I've found that I am the problem, having nicked lines while weeding or digging around in spring.
Ensure that the controller is working by standing outside, testing each zone and walking around to check each end point.
You can usually hear a leak, so keep an ear out for loud gushing or hissing while also scanning visually.
If you use a hose bib setup, check that as well.
We've had a hot spell early on the west coast, meaning my irrigation went on earlier than ever this year.
(For plants growing in full sun, water in the morning and aim for 1 to 2 inches of water per week.)

Credit: Amanda Blum

Your established beds can benefit from a layer of compost, which will act as a general fertilizer, as well as create volume back in your beds if they’ve experienced erosion during the winter.
Follow the compost with a layer of mulch.
Spending this time spreading the compost and mulch will give you the opportunity to size up each part of your garden, so take notes as you go for which areas need weeding, are experiencing pests, or have plants that look like they might not have survived the winter. Shrubs, trees, and vinesA number of shrubs go through blooming cycles in spring, like lilac and forsythia.
Once they’ve bloomed, you can prune them back, and in some cases, like lilac, this may trigger a second bloom later in the season.
In either case, it will take one fall task off your list and keep the garden looking tidier.

Lilac in bloom.
Credit: Amanda Blum

This is a good time to plant new woody shrubs and trees—the weather is mild and the ground should be soft from the rains.
For your existing trees, make sure you feed them with a fertilizer that is appropriate for them this month.
Your garden center can help identify which fertilizer is best for the trees you have.
Each of these trees will be creating shoots this month, and you should prune them back as necessary to maintain the shape of the tree and to keep fruit to an amount the tree can reasonably support.
Ensure you are only using clean pruners or loppers—carry diluted bleach or Lysol with you in a spray bottle while outside. Cleaning your tools in between plants ensures that you do not transmit virus, fungus or disease between plants.

Clematis plant climbing the wall.
Credit: Amanda Blum

Finally, climbing perennial vines like clematis, roses, and honeysuckle should be coming out of their slumber at this point, and you’ll want to ensure you’re supporting them by tying them loosely to their trellises as they climb. Annual flowers

Annuals at the nursery.
Credit: Amanda Blum

It is finally time to put some annuals in the ground, which provide pops of color and can last all summer if you treat them right.
Garden centers should be full of annuals at this point of the year, including petunias, lobelia, marigolds, and begonias.
Annuals are a bit more tender than perennials, so you want to wait until you are past the risk of freezing to plant.
Annuals can fill an area with color in the space and time between perennials blooming, and are ideal for window boxes and planters, where it might be hard for annuals to survive the winter.
Most hanging baskets have annuals for the same reason—they’re too exposed for perennials or anything else to survive winter.
Make sure that the beds you're planting into have a slow release fertilizer like Osmacote in them, and that they will get regularly watered.
Perennial flowersMost people will have tulips in bloom or just completed at this point—remember not to cut them down after bloom.
Tulips need their leaves in order to come back next year, so let them compost in place.
Once the foliage has yellowed, it’s OK to divide or move the bulbs.
Once the tulip has bloomed, it’s a great time for a bulb fertilizer, so they’ll be strong next year.
You can also plant summer bulbs like dahlias and cannas now, if the risk of frost is gone.

You can divide irises now.
Credit: Amanda Blum

If you didn’t get new perennials planted in April, you can still do so now, or divide the perennials you have.
The ground should be very workable now, and you may be noticing which plants are ready to be divided as you move about the garden.
If you’d like them to bloom this summer, you’ll want to get this task done in May.
As you plant, ensure you’re using slow release fertilizer in the ground where you plant. This time of year, be vigilant in checking your garden center, grocer, and anywhere else that has a "sad plant shelf" (SPS).
Stores will discount these plants that don't look especially happy at 50% off or more, and because they're perennials, that's a deal.
Plant them as you would any other, and while they might not come back this year, they will next year.
Delphiniums and agastache are my favorite SPS finds.
Your roses need a spring fertilizer and might need some shaping at this point or help attaching to the trellis.
Look for signs of stress or pests and ensure you’re treating them with appropriate treatments.
Your garden center can help. VegetablesOnto the main event! Gardeners across the country wait for the precise moment to put their tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants into the ground, and sometime this month, that day will arrive.
Here on the west coast, it's usually Mother's Day, but what you're actually waiting for is steady overnight temps over 50 degrees.
If in doubt, join a local gardening group, because this will be the main topic of conversation this time of year.
That means it's time to begin hardening off vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants as appropriate.

Credit: Amanda Blum

Perennial vegetables like asparagus and artichokes should be active now.
Remember to harvest asparagus daily, taking only spears that are larger than your pinky.
Once spears become thinner, it’s time to leave the plant alone for next year.
Watch your artichoke plants for ants or aphid infestations, which may be sprayed off, but will return without further treatment like neem oil or nearby trap flowers like nasturtiums.
Both asparagus beds and artichokes will benefit from a spring fertilizer.

Nasturtiums are excellent trap plants.
Credit: Amanda Blum

By mid to late May, almost all regions should be planting their warm weather crops.
Tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, but also beans, corn, cucumbers, and everything else.
Your beans and corn can be direct seeded, as can melon, pumpkin, and both winter and summer squash, but using starts will give you a leg up for the summer.
If you planted potatoes in the spring, it’s likely time to hill up earth around the sprouts.

Strawberry plants that need to be thinned.
Credit: Amanda Blum

Thin out your strawberry beds of runners and give your strawberry beds a dusting of fertilizer.
Strawberry plants can either focus their energy on producing these runners or on fruit, but aren’t very good at doing both.
Each spring the beds must be thinned to create better and larger fruit.
You can give away the runners or plant them elsewhere.
Pest controlReduce snail and slug populations by putting out traps and going on regular evening hunts.
Doing this now, as the rains cease, will greatly reduce problems later this summer.
Hang pheromone traps in your fruit trees now, which will control pests this summer and protect your fruit.
Source: https://lifehacker.com/home/gardening-tasks-may?utm_medium=RSS" style="color: #0066cc;">https://lifehacker.com/home/gardening-tasks-may?utm_medium=RSS
#all #the #gardening #tasks #tackling #may

All the Gardening Tasks I’m Tackling in May
There is no place more joyous than a garden center in May. The shelves are full of annuals, vegetables, and perennials ready to go home with you. Gardeners everywhere are waiting with bated breath, trying to find the perfect day to get plants in the ground. Pops of color are emerging as tulips, irises, peonies, and lilacs fill yards. What you do this month will determine how successful your summer garden is, so strap into your overalls, grab your sunhat and spade, and get outside. Let's install a summer garden. I'll go over the maintenance tasks you should tackle first, then get into the details on what you should plant and how to do it.Perform a few garden maintenance tasks firstYour watering systems may have taken a hit during winter, so it's vital to check each line before you turn on irrigation for the summer. Often, I've found that I am the problem, having nicked lines while weeding or digging around in spring. Ensure that the controller is working by standing outside, testing each zone and walking around to check each end point. You can usually hear a leak, so keep an ear out for loud gushing or hissing while also scanning visually. If you use a hose bib setup, check that as well. We've had a hot spell early on the west coast, meaning my irrigation went on earlier than ever this year. (For plants growing in full sun, water in the morning and aim for 1 to 2 inches of water per week.) Credit: Amanda Blum Your established beds can benefit from a layer of compost, which will act as a general fertilizer, as well as create volume back in your beds if they’ve experienced erosion during the winter. Follow the compost with a layer of mulch. Spending this time spreading the compost and mulch will give you the opportunity to size up each part of your garden, so take notes as you go for which areas need weeding, are experiencing pests, or have plants that look like they might not have survived the winter. Shrubs, trees, and vinesA number of shrubs go through blooming cycles in spring, like lilac and forsythia. Once they’ve bloomed, you can prune them back, and in some cases, like lilac, this may trigger a second bloom later in the season. In either case, it will take one fall task off your list and keep the garden looking tidier. Lilac in bloom. Credit: Amanda Blum This is a good time to plant new woody shrubs and trees—the weather is mild and the ground should be soft from the rains. For your existing trees, make sure you feed them with a fertilizer that is appropriate for them this month. Your garden center can help identify which fertilizer is best for the trees you have. Each of these trees will be creating shoots this month, and you should prune them back as necessary to maintain the shape of the tree and to keep fruit to an amount the tree can reasonably support. Ensure you are only using clean pruners or loppers—carry diluted bleach or Lysol with you in a spray bottle while outside. Cleaning your tools in between plants ensures that you do not transmit virus, fungus or disease between plants. Clematis plant climbing the wall. Credit: Amanda Blum Finally, climbing perennial vines like clematis, roses, and honeysuckle should be coming out of their slumber at this point, and you’ll want to ensure you’re supporting them by tying them loosely to their trellises as they climb. Annual flowers Annuals at the nursery. Credit: Amanda Blum It is finally time to put some annuals in the ground, which provide pops of color and can last all summer if you treat them right. Garden centers should be full of annuals at this point of the year, including petunias, lobelia, marigolds, and begonias. Annuals are a bit more tender than perennials, so you want to wait until you are past the risk of freezing to plant. Annuals can fill an area with color in the space and time between perennials blooming, and are ideal for window boxes and planters, where it might be hard for annuals to survive the winter. Most hanging baskets have annuals for the same reason—they’re too exposed for perennials or anything else to survive winter. Make sure that the beds you're planting into have a slow release fertilizer like Osmacote in them, and that they will get regularly watered. Perennial flowersMost people will have tulips in bloom or just completed at this point—remember not to cut them down after bloom. Tulips need their leaves in order to come back next year, so let them compost in place. Once the foliage has yellowed, it’s OK to divide or move the bulbs. Once the tulip has bloomed, it’s a great time for a bulb fertilizer, so they’ll be strong next year. You can also plant summer bulbs like dahlias and cannas now, if the risk of frost is gone. You can divide irises now. Credit: Amanda Blum If you didn’t get new perennials planted in April, you can still do so now, or divide the perennials you have. The ground should be very workable now, and you may be noticing which plants are ready to be divided as you move about the garden. If you’d like them to bloom this summer, you’ll want to get this task done in May. As you plant, ensure you’re using slow release fertilizer in the ground where you plant. This time of year, be vigilant in checking your garden center, grocer, and anywhere else that has a "sad plant shelf" (SPS). Stores will discount these plants that don't look especially happy at 50% off or more, and because they're perennials, that's a deal. Plant them as you would any other, and while they might not come back this year, they will next year. Delphiniums and agastache are my favorite SPS finds. Your roses need a spring fertilizer and might need some shaping at this point or help attaching to the trellis. Look for signs of stress or pests and ensure you’re treating them with appropriate treatments. Your garden center can help. VegetablesOnto the main event! Gardeners across the country wait for the precise moment to put their tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants into the ground, and sometime this month, that day will arrive. Here on the west coast, it's usually Mother's Day, but what you're actually waiting for is steady overnight temps over 50 degrees. If in doubt, join a local gardening group, because this will be the main topic of conversation this time of year. That means it's time to begin hardening off vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants as appropriate. Credit: Amanda Blum Perennial vegetables like asparagus and artichokes should be active now. Remember to harvest asparagus daily, taking only spears that are larger than your pinky. Once spears become thinner, it’s time to leave the plant alone for next year. Watch your artichoke plants for ants or aphid infestations, which may be sprayed off, but will return without further treatment like neem oil or nearby trap flowers like nasturtiums. Both asparagus beds and artichokes will benefit from a spring fertilizer. Nasturtiums are excellent trap plants. Credit: Amanda Blum By mid to late May, almost all regions should be planting their warm weather crops. Tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, but also beans, corn, cucumbers, and everything else. Your beans and corn can be direct seeded, as can melon, pumpkin, and both winter and summer squash, but using starts will give you a leg up for the summer. If you planted potatoes in the spring, it’s likely time to hill up earth around the sprouts. Strawberry plants that need to be thinned. Credit: Amanda Blum Thin out your strawberry beds of runners and give your strawberry beds a dusting of fertilizer. Strawberry plants can either focus their energy on producing these runners or on fruit, but aren’t very good at doing both. Each spring the beds must be thinned to create better and larger fruit. You can give away the runners or plant them elsewhere. Pest controlReduce snail and slug populations by putting out traps and going on regular evening hunts. Doing this now, as the rains cease, will greatly reduce problems later this summer. Hang pheromone traps in your fruit trees now, which will control pests this summer and protect your fruit. Source: https://lifehacker.com/home/gardening-tasks-may?utm_medium=RSS #all #the #gardening #tasks #tackling #may

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All the Gardening Tasks I’m Tackling in May
There is no place more joyous than a garden center in May. The shelves are full of annuals, vegetables, and perennials ready to go home with you. Gardeners everywhere are waiting with bated breath, trying to find the perfect day to get plants in the ground. Pops of color are emerging as tulips, irises, peonies, and lilacs fill yards. What you do this month will determine how successful your summer garden is, so strap into your overalls, grab your sunhat and spade, and get outside. Let's install a summer garden. I'll go over the maintenance tasks you should tackle first, then get into the details on what you should plant and how to do it.Perform a few garden maintenance tasks firstYour watering systems may have taken a hit during winter, so it's vital to check each line before you turn on irrigation for the summer. Often, I've found that I am the problem, having nicked lines while weeding or digging around in spring. Ensure that the controller is working by standing outside, testing each zone and walking around to check each end point. You can usually hear a leak, so keep an ear out for loud gushing or hissing while also scanning visually. If you use a hose bib setup, check that as well. We've had a hot spell early on the west coast, meaning my irrigation went on earlier than ever this year. (For plants growing in full sun, water in the morning and aim for 1 to 2 inches of water per week.) Credit: Amanda Blum Your established beds can benefit from a layer of compost, which will act as a general fertilizer, as well as create volume back in your beds if they’ve experienced erosion during the winter. Follow the compost with a layer of mulch. Spending this time spreading the compost and mulch will give you the opportunity to size up each part of your garden, so take notes as you go for which areas need weeding, are experiencing pests, or have plants that look like they might not have survived the winter. Shrubs, trees, and vinesA number of shrubs go through blooming cycles in spring, like lilac and forsythia. Once they’ve bloomed, you can prune them back, and in some cases, like lilac, this may trigger a second bloom later in the season. In either case, it will take one fall task off your list and keep the garden looking tidier. Lilac in bloom. Credit: Amanda Blum This is a good time to plant new woody shrubs and trees—the weather is mild and the ground should be soft from the rains. For your existing trees, make sure you feed them with a fertilizer that is appropriate for them this month. Your garden center can help identify which fertilizer is best for the trees you have. Each of these trees will be creating shoots this month, and you should prune them back as necessary to maintain the shape of the tree and to keep fruit to an amount the tree can reasonably support. Ensure you are only using clean pruners or loppers—carry diluted bleach or Lysol with you in a spray bottle while outside. Cleaning your tools in between plants ensures that you do not transmit virus, fungus or disease between plants. Clematis plant climbing the wall. Credit: Amanda Blum Finally, climbing perennial vines like clematis, roses, and honeysuckle should be coming out of their slumber at this point, and you’ll want to ensure you’re supporting them by tying them loosely to their trellises as they climb. Annual flowers Annuals at the nursery. Credit: Amanda Blum It is finally time to put some annuals in the ground, which provide pops of color and can last all summer if you treat them right. Garden centers should be full of annuals at this point of the year, including petunias, lobelia, marigolds, and begonias. Annuals are a bit more tender than perennials, so you want to wait until you are past the risk of freezing to plant. Annuals can fill an area with color in the space and time between perennials blooming, and are ideal for window boxes and planters, where it might be hard for annuals to survive the winter. Most hanging baskets have annuals for the same reason—they’re too exposed for perennials or anything else to survive winter. Make sure that the beds you're planting into have a slow release fertilizer like Osmacote in them, and that they will get regularly watered. Perennial flowersMost people will have tulips in bloom or just completed at this point—remember not to cut them down after bloom. Tulips need their leaves in order to come back next year, so let them compost in place. Once the foliage has yellowed, it’s OK to divide or move the bulbs. Once the tulip has bloomed, it’s a great time for a bulb fertilizer, so they’ll be strong next year. You can also plant summer bulbs like dahlias and cannas now, if the risk of frost is gone. You can divide irises now. Credit: Amanda Blum If you didn’t get new perennials planted in April, you can still do so now, or divide the perennials you have. The ground should be very workable now, and you may be noticing which plants are ready to be divided as you move about the garden. If you’d like them to bloom this summer, you’ll want to get this task done in May. As you plant, ensure you’re using slow release fertilizer in the ground where you plant. This time of year, be vigilant in checking your garden center, grocer, and anywhere else that has a "sad plant shelf" (SPS). Stores will discount these plants that don't look especially happy at 50% off or more, and because they're perennials, that's a deal. Plant them as you would any other, and while they might not come back this year, they will next year. Delphiniums and agastache are my favorite SPS finds. Your roses need a spring fertilizer and might need some shaping at this point or help attaching to the trellis. Look for signs of stress or pests and ensure you’re treating them with appropriate treatments. Your garden center can help. VegetablesOnto the main event! Gardeners across the country wait for the precise moment to put their tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants into the ground, and sometime this month, that day will arrive. Here on the west coast, it's usually Mother's Day, but what you're actually waiting for is steady overnight temps over 50 degrees. If in doubt, join a local gardening group, because this will be the main topic of conversation this time of year. That means it's time to begin hardening off vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants as appropriate. Credit: Amanda Blum Perennial vegetables like asparagus and artichokes should be active now. Remember to harvest asparagus daily, taking only spears that are larger than your pinky. Once spears become thinner, it’s time to leave the plant alone for next year. Watch your artichoke plants for ants or aphid infestations, which may be sprayed off, but will return without further treatment like neem oil or nearby trap flowers like nasturtiums. Both asparagus beds and artichokes will benefit from a spring fertilizer. Nasturtiums are excellent trap plants. Credit: Amanda Blum By mid to late May, almost all regions should be planting their warm weather crops. Tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, but also beans, corn, cucumbers, and everything else. Your beans and corn can be direct seeded, as can melon, pumpkin, and both winter and summer squash, but using starts will give you a leg up for the summer. If you planted potatoes in the spring, it’s likely time to hill up earth around the sprouts. Strawberry plants that need to be thinned. Credit: Amanda Blum Thin out your strawberry beds of runners and give your strawberry beds a dusting of fertilizer. Strawberry plants can either focus their energy on producing these runners or on fruit, but aren’t very good at doing both. Each spring the beds must be thinned to create better and larger fruit. You can give away the runners or plant them elsewhere. Pest controlReduce snail and slug populations by putting out traps and going on regular evening hunts. Doing this now, as the rains cease, will greatly reduce problems later this summer. Hang pheromone traps in your fruit trees now, which will control pests this summer and protect your fruit.

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