So, you’ve braved the pre-order sites, or maybe you’ve just gotten lucky while waiting in line—either way, you’ve got yourself a Nintendo Switch 2. Congratulations! But before you start gaming, there are a few things you’ll need to keep in mind while setting up your console. Nintendo is known for being user friendly, but also a bit particular. Case in point: You can only do a full transfer of your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2 during setup, and if you miss this opportunity, you’ll have to reset your device to try again, or manually copy over your games and save data piece-by-piece later on.Luckily, I’ve got your back. Read on for a quick guide on how to set up your Nintendo Switch 2, and the three other features you should set up before you start playing.How to start setting up a Nintendo Switch 2For the most part, setting up a new Switch 2 out of the box is straightforward, but you’ll still want to pay close attention to each step before moving on, especially when it comes to transferring console data.First, remove your Switch 2 and your joy-con controllers from their packaging. Then, plug your joy-cons into their respective slots (they’ll attach magnetically, so it’s much simpler than on the first Switch). If you don’t know which joy-con goes where, the one with red highlights goes to the right of the screen, and the one with blue highlights goes to the left.Next, plug your Switch into power using the included charging brick and cable, and power it on. On the screens that follow, select your language and region, then read and accept the end-user license agreement. Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt You’ll see a screen to connect to the internet and download the console’s day-one system update. This technically isn’t mandatory, and skipping it (with the X button on the right joy-con) will instead take you to time zone settings. However, most features will be locked down, including backward compatibility, until you download it, so I recommend doing it during setup if possible. If you do skip this step, you can access the update later under Settings > System > System Update.Once you’re connected to the internet and you’ve started downloading the update, you’ll be able to continue setup while it downloads. Now, you’ll pick your time zone and click through a couple of tutorial pages. These will instruct you about portable and TV play, tell you how to use the kickstand and extra USB-C port, and walk you through detaching your joy-con from the console (press in the button on the back of the joy-con, underneath the trigger, and pull). You can also click through an optional tutorial on connecting your Switch 2 to a TV, if you like, after which you’ll get quick guides on using the included joy-con grip accessory and the joy-con wrist straps.If your console hasn’t finished updating, it’ll finish that now, and then take you to your first big decision: do you want to transfer your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2?Transferring Switch 1 data to the Switch 2During Switch 2 setup, Nintendo will allow you to transfer your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2, but there are a few caveats.You’ll know you’re ready for this once your system update is downloaded and you’re on a screen that says “To Nintendo Switch Console Owners,” above a graphic of someone holding a Switch 1 and Switch 2. Next to the graphic, you’ll see two buttons: Begin System Transfer, Don’t Transfer Data, plus a third button below that explains the process to you, but leaves out a few key details.Before you make your decision, the most important thing to remember is this: There are actually two ways to transfer data from the Switch 1 to the Switch 2, and despite what you might have read elsewhere, locally transferring your Switch 1 data to the Switch 2 during setup will not factory reset your original Switch. Unless you’ve taken extra steps beforehand, this is the option Nintendo’s setup process will recommend to you, so most users don’t need to be scared about accidentally erasing their original consoles. Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt If you stick with a local transfer, it will simply copy over your data to your Switch 2, so that it exists on both systems. There are a few specific cases where some data will get removed from your original device as it makes its way over to your new one, but for the most part, you’ll be able to keep using your original device as usual after the transfer, and there are ways to get that data back later on (I’ll get into that). Just know that save data for specific games, as well as some free-to-play games, may have been deleted from your Switch 1 and moved over to your Switch 2. Don’t worry— Nintendo will warn you about which software will be affected during the transfer process. Additionally, screenshots and video captures stored on a microSD card attached to the Switch 1 will need to be moved over manually later on.How to transfer your Switch 1 data locallyWith that in mind, if you want to transfer your data locally, which is what most people should do, click the Begin System Transfer button and follow the instructions—this involves signing into your Nintendo account, keeping your original Switch powered on and in close proximity to the Switch 2, and activating the transfer on your original Switch under Settings > System Settings > System Transfer to Nintendo Switch 2.How to transfer your Switch 1 data using Nintendo's serversThe confusion about factory resets comes from this data transfer option, which involves using the Nintendo servers. This will factory reset your Switch, and is best if you plan to sell it anyway, or if you expect to be away from your original Switch during Switch 2 setup and don’t mind setting up your original console from scratch when you get back to it. To start this kind of transfer, power on your original Switch, navigate to the System Transfer page mentioned above, then select I don’t have a Nintendo Switch 2 yet. Take note of the Download Deadline for later. Conveniently, that does point to one upside to this method: you can start it before you even have a Switch 2 in hand.Now, click Next, then Upload Data, then OK, followed by another OK. Click Start Initialization to begin factory resetting your original Switch. From here, your original Switch will revert to how it was before you bought it, and you’ll need to move over to your Switch 2, click Begin System Transfer, and sign into your Nintendo account. If the system detects that you have transfer data to download from the cloud, it’ll walk you through the process. Note, however, that if you don’t download your transfer data before the deadline you jotted down earlier, you’ll lose access to it.If you want to skip the data transfer process...If you’d rather not transfer your data, that’s also fine, but you won’t have an opportunity to do so later, and will instead need to move games and save data over manually. Click the Don’t Transfer Data button, then Continue to move to the next step.Adding a user and parental controlsWith system transfers out of the way, you’re through the hardest part of setting up your new console. Now, you’ll be prompted to add a user to the system. Here, you can sign in with your Nintendo Account to get access to your Switch Online subscription and your collection of downloadable games, or create a local user profile. After that, you can add more users as you like, or you can save that for later (simply navigate to System Settings > User > Add User).Next up, parental controls. Like with additional users, you can set these up later under System Settings > Parental Controls, but there’s no harm to setting them up now as well. To do so, click Set Parental Controls.  Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt You’ll have a few options. Most of these will prompt you to use Nintendo’s Parental Controls app, but you can also click the X button on the right-hand joy-con to set up limited parental controls directly on the console. Doing so will allow you to select from a number of presets that will block access to certain games and communication features, but not much else. Using the app, meanwhile, will let you set a daily play time limit, bedtime settings, restrictions on the new GameChat feature, and see reports on play time and games played. It also doesn’t require a Switch Online subscription, so it’s worth using if you have a smart device.To set up parental controls using the app, first download it for either iOS or Android using the information on the screen, then click the “If You’ve Already Downloaded the App” button. Enter the registration code from your app into your Switch 2 system, then follow the instructions in the app to finish setup. Which buttons you’ll need to click will depend on the controls you’d like to activate, as well as for which users and systems, but it’s fairly straightforward.MicroSD card limitationsJust a couple more screens. First, a quick warning about microSD cards. Unlike the Switch 1, the Switch 2 is only compatible with microSD Express cards, which are faster, but options for them are also a bit more limited—in other words, there’s a good chance you won’t be able to use the same microSD card from your Switch 1 on your Switch 2. To use a microSD card on Switch 2, it’ll need either of the two logos shown in the image below. A bit of a bummer, but at least a microSD card is optional (it’ll help you store more games, but the included storage on the Switch 2 is more generous than on the Switch 1). Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt Oh, and like on the Switch 1, the microSD slot is hidden under the kickstand, in case you’re having trouble finding it.Virtual Game CardsYou’re technically through setup at this point, but there are still a few features you’ll probably want to configure before you start gaming. The most obvious of these is Virtual Game Cards, Nintendo’s new system for managing games purchased digitally.Essentially, like the name implies, these work similarly to physical game cards, but over the internet. This means that, unlike with your Steam library, you can only load a game to one console at a time. "Loading" is Nintendo specific term, but for the most part, it just means your game is downloaded and ready to play."(Technically, you can still play the same game on two separate consoles at the same time, even if it isn't loaded on one, but doing so is a bit obtuse—click through here for more details.)To access your Virtual Game Cards, click the Virtual Game Card icon in the bottom row on your Switch 2’s home screen—it’ll look like a game cartridge. From here, if you’ve signed into your Nintendo account, you’ll see all your digital purchases and will be able to download and play them from here. If you haven’t signed into your Nintendo Account, you’ll have the option to do so. Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt Now, you’ll have a few options. First, if a game isn’t loaded onto your original Switch, you can simply download it to your Switch 2 by clicking Load to This Console. If the console isn’t set as your primary device (likely the case if you didn’t do a transfer), you might see a warning if you try to open a game, depending on how up-to-date your original Switch's software is. If your original Switch doesn't have the Virtual Game Cards update yet, you can click the If You Don’t Have That Console button to download your game anyway. It will simply cease being playable on the other console while you use it on this one, although that’s always the case when moving a Virtual Game Card between systems. Otherwise, you might need to link your two systems by bringing them close together and following the instructions on screen before you can load a Virtual Game Card on your new device. If you're not able to do this, like if you've gotten rid of your original Switch while it's still set as your primary device, you can remove your old Switch from your account by deregistering it. After deregistering your old console, you can set your Switch 2 as your new primary device by connecting it to the eShop. If you're able to link your old console to your new one, this won’t be necessary for simply accessing your library, but it will extend any Nintendo Online benefits to all users on your new primary device, rather than the one associated with your Nintendo Account. Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt Alternatively, if you've managed to link your devices, you can use the device that currently has your Virtual Game Card (i.e. your Switch 1) on it to load it to your new one (i.e. your Switch 2). Simply open your games, click Load to Another Console, and follow the instructions on screen. This will have the same effect as the Load to This Console Button. Also, if you'd like to be able to continue playing a game on a device even after moving its Virtual Game Card to another device, you can enable Use Online License under System Settings > User Settings > Online License Settings to do just that. You'll need to be connected to the internet for this to work, whereas you can play a Virtual Game Card offline, but it's better than nothing. Plus, this enables that workaround from earlier in this section that allows you to play the same game on both devices at once.How to lend a Virtual Game Card to someone elseYou’ll also notice that you can lend a Virtual Game Card to members of a “Family Group.” To do this, you’ll first need to set up a Family Group online. On Nintendo’s website, log into your Nintendo Account, then click the Family Group tab on the left hand side of your account page. Here, you can invite members to join your Family Group via email, or create a Family Group account for your child. Note that if you have a Nintendo Switch online Family Plan subscription, members of your Family Group will be able to use its benefits (for up to eight accounts), although accounts that are part of your family group can also still use their individual subscriptions.With a Family Group set up, on the Virtual Game Card page, click the game you’d like to lend out, then Lend to a Family Group Member. Next, bring your Switch 2 in close proximity with that Family Group Member’s device—this needs to be done in person.Finally, click Select a User to Lend to. You can lend up to three games to three different accounts at once, and borrowers will be able to play these games for 14 days. During that time, you won’t be able to play the Game Card, and the borrower won’t get access to your save data while borrowing. However, they will keep their own save data for their next borrowing period, or if they choose to buy the game themselves. There are no limits to how often you can lend out a game, and you can re-lend games immediately upon the borrowing period expiring. Also, while you’ll need to lend out your games in person, they’ll return to you remotely.Transferring save dataEven if you didn’t transfer your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2 during setup, you can still access its save data on your new device. You have a couple of options here.First, the free option. On your original Switch, go to System Settings > Data Management > Transfer Your Save Data. Click Send Data to Another Console, then pick the user whose saves you want to send to your Switch 2. Pick the saves you want to send over, then click OK. Note that these saves will be deleted from your original console once moved over.Next, with your Switch 2 in close proximity to your Switch 1 (this also needs to be done in person), navigate to System Settings > Data Management > Transfer Your Save Data. Click Receive Save Data. To move data from your Switch 2 to your Switch 1, simply perform these steps in reverse.Second, the paid option. If you have a Nintendo Switch Online membership, you can also use cloud saves to move save data between devices. By default, these are enabled automatically and will keep both of your systems up to date with the most recent saves. However, you can also manually download cloud saves either from a game’s software menu (press + or - while hovering over it on the Switch home screen) or from System Settings > Data Management > Save Data Cloud. You can also disable automatic save data download from here, if you like.Lock your home screen behind a passcodeFinally, you can lock your Switch 2 with a PIN for some added security, kind of like a cell phone. To set this up, simply go to Settings > System > Console Lock. Click OK, then follow the instructions on the screen that pops up to enter your PIN.There’s plenty more to dive into with the Switch 2, which I’ll cover over the following week. For now, though, this should be enough to get you started. Happy gaming!

html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40/loose.dtd" The MetaHuman client reel. Epic Games’ framework for generating realistic 3D characters for games is out of early access, and can now be used with any DCC app or game engine. Epic Games has officially launched MetaHuman, its framework for generating realistic 3D characters for games, animation and VFX work, after four years in early access.The core applications, MetaHuman Creator, Mesh to MetaHuman and MetaHuman Animator, are now integrated into Unreal Engine 5.6, the latest version of the game engine. In addition, Epic has updated the licensing for MetaHuman characters, making it possible to use them in any game engine or DCC application, including in commercial projects. There are also two new free plugins, MetaHuman for Maya and MetaHuman for Houdini, intended to streamline the process of editing MetaHumans in Maya and Houdini. A suite of tools for generating and animating realistic real-time 3D characters First launched in early access in 2021, MetaHuman is a framework of tools for generating realistic 3D characters for next-gen games, animation, virtual production and VFX.The first component, MetaHuman Creator, enables users to design realistic digital humans. Users can generate new characters by blending between presets, then adjusting the proportions of the face by hand, and customising readymade hairstyles and clothing. The second component, Mesh to MetaHuman, makes it possible to create MetaHumans matching 3D scans or facial models created in other DCC apps. The final component, MetaHuman Animator, streamlines the process of transferring the facial performance of an actor from video footage to a MetaHuman character. MetaHuman Creator was originally a cloud-based tool, while Mesh to MetaHuman and MetaHuman Animator were available via the old MetaHuman plugin for Unreal Engine. Now integrated directly into Unreal Engine 5.6 That changes with the end of early access, with MetaHuman Creator, Mesh to MetaHuman and MetaHuman Animator all now integrated directly into Unreal Engine itself.Integration – available in Unreal Engine 5.6, the latest version of the engine – is intended to simplify character creation and asset management worklows. Studios also get access to the MetaHuman source code, since Unreal Engine itself comes with full C++ source code access. However, the tools still cannot be run entirely locally: according to Epic, in-editor workflow is “enhanced by cloud services that deliver autorigging and texture synthesis”. https://www.cgchannel.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/250604_MetaHumanOfficialLaunch_LicensingChanges_UnifiedClothing.mp4 Users can now adjust MetaHumans’ bodies, with a new unified Outfit Asset making it possible to create 3D clothing that adjusts automatically to bodily proportions. Updates to both MetaHuman Creator and MetaHuman Animator In addition, the official release introduces new features, with MetaHuman Creator’s parametric system for creating faces now extended to body shapes.Users can now adjust proportions like height, chest and waist measurements, and leg length, rather than simply selecting preset body types. Similarly, a new unified Outfit Asset makes it possible to author custom 3D clothing, rather than selecting readymade presets, with garments resizing to characters’ body shapes. MetaHuman Animator – which previously required footage from stereo head-mounted cameras or iPhones – now supports footage from mono cameras like webcams. The toolset can also now generate facial animation – both lip sync and head movement – solely from audio recordings, as well as from video footage. You can find fuller descriptions of the new features in Epic Games’ blog post. Use MetaHumans in Unity or Godot games, or sell them on online marketplaces Equally significantly, Epic has changed the licensing for MetaHumans.The MetaHuman toolset is now covered by the standard Unreal Engine EULA, meaning that it can be used for free by any artist or studio with under $1 million/year in revenue. MetaHuman characters and clothing can also now be sold on online marketplaces, or used in commercial projects created with other DCC apps or game engines. The only exception is for AI: you can use MetaHumans in “workflows that incorporate artificial intelligence technology”, but not to train or enhance the AI models themselves. Studios earning more than $1 million/year from projects that use MetaHuman characters need Unreal Engine seat licenses, with currently cost $1,850/year. However, since MetaHuman characters and animations are classed as ‘non-engine products’, they can be used in games created in other engines, like Unity or Godot, without incurring the 5% cut of the revenue that Epic takes from Unreal Engine games. https://www.cgchannel.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/250604_MetaHumanOfficialLaunch_LicensingChanges_MetaHumanForMaya.mp4 The free MetaHuman for Maya plugin lets you edit MetaHumans with Maya’s native tools. New plugins streamline editing MetaHumans in Maya and Houdini Last but not least, Epic Games has released new free add-ons intended to streamline the process of editing MetaHumans in other DCC software.The MetaHuman for Maya plugin makes it possible to manipulate the MetaHuman mesh directly with Maya’s standard mesh-editing and sculpting tools. Users can also create MetaHuman-compatible hair grooms using Maya’s XGen toolset, and export them in Alembic format. The MetaHuman for Houdini plugin seems to be confined to grooming, with users able to create hairstyles using Houdini’s native tools, and export them in Alembic format. The plugins themselves are supplemented by MetaHuman Groom Starter Kits for Maya and Houdini, which provide readymade sample files for generating grooms. Price, licensing and system requirements MetaHuman Creator and MetaHuman Animator are integrated into Unreal Engine 5.6. The Unreal Editor is compatible with Windows 10+, macOS 14.0+ and RHEL/Rocky Linux 8+.The MetaHuman plugin for Maya is compatible with Maya 2022-2025. The MetaHuman for Houdini plugin is compatible with Houdini 20.5 with SideFX Labs installed. All of the software is free to use, including for commercial projects, if you earn under $1 million/year. You can find more information on licensing in the story above. Read an overview of the changes to the MetaHuman software on Epic Games’ blog Download the free MetaHuman for Maya and Houdini plugins and starter kits Read Epic Games’ FAQs about the changes to licensing for MetaHumans Have your say on this story by following CG Channel on Facebook, Instagram and X (formerly Twitter). As well as being able to comment on stories, followers of our social media accounts can see videos we don’t post on the site itself, including making-ofs for the latest VFX movies, animations, games cinematics and motion graphics projects.

The dock, an iconic Mac feature, is used to launch apps, switch between them, and as a hub for displaying key apps and minimized windows while they're open. By default, the dock has a clean look and features a few apps that your computer thinks you might want to use. However, you can get a lot out of customizing your dock, like removing the icons for default Apple apps you don't use. You can also change its placement and its look. Here's what you need to know to do just that, plus a bit extra.Remove apps you're not going to use Credit: Pranay Parab You should start your dock tweaks by removing apps you're never going to use. To remove an app from your dock, right-click it and select Options > Remove from Dock. You can also ensure apps that are only in the dock temporarily (which appear on the right side of the dock, next to a separator) stay there by right-clicking them and selecting Options > Keep in Dock. Move apps around to make them easy to accessYour next step should be to reorder your Dock's apps, which is as simple dragging their icons where you want them. Note, though, that if you accidentally drop an icon outside of the dock, it'll be removed from your dock and you'll have to add it again.Change the size of the dockYou can also adjust your dock's size. Hover your mouse cursor over any of your dock's separators (those vertical dividing lines). The cursor will change to an arrow that points up and down. Drag it towards the top of the screen to make the dock larger or drag it downwards to make it smaller.Alternatively, you can adjust the dock’s size by clicking the Apple logo in the top-left corner of your Mac's screen and going to System Settings > Desktop & Dock and moving the Size slider.  Change the dock’s positionThe dock can be moved to either side of your screen, saving you precious real estate. To change this, right-click any vacant area in the dock and select Position on Screen. Pick Left or Right to align your dock vertically to your selected position. Center will place it back in the default spot.This option is also available in System Settings > Desktop & Dock > Position on screen.Automatically hide and show the dock Credit: Pranay Parab Some of us prefer to have a clean workspace, and if that's you, you can auto-hide the dock when it's not in use. It won't be gone entirely, but it'll only make itself visible when you move the cursor towards its location. This is also a good feature for those with limited screen space. Enable this feature by going to System Settings > Desktop & Dock > Automatically hide & show the dock. Alternatively, you can use the keyboard shortcut Command-Option-D to toggle this setting on and off.Remove recently opened apps from the dockThe right side of your dock will show your most recently opened apps. If this annoys you, you can disable the setting by going to System Settings > Desktop & Dock and disabling Show suggested and recent apps in Dock. I prefer this feature on, to help me navigate commonly used apps, but if you're short on screen space, it could be useful.Move minimized windows into the app iconWhenever you minimize apps on your Mac, each window appears as a separate icon on the dock. This can cause the dock to fill up fast, automatically making it smaller. If you’d rather avoid this, macOS allows you to minimize windows directly into the appropriate app icon instead. Just go to System Settings > Desktop & Dock and select Minimize windows into application icon. To access a window that's been minimized into an app icon, right-click it.Hide indicators for open apps Credit: Pranay Parab If an app is open on your Mac, a small dot will appear near its icon on the dock. You can remove these open app indicators if you'd like. Go to System Settings > Desktop & Dock and disable Show indicators for open applications.Customize magnification of iconsWhen you move your cursor near any app icon on your Mac’s dock, it’ll automatically enlarge. You can change the level of this magnification effect, or disable it altogether by going to System Settings > Desktop & Dock.To enable or disable enlarging icons, use the slider below Magnification. Moving the slider all the way to the left switches off magnification, while moving it elsewhere will adjust magnification size. Fun tip: If you have this feature disabled, you can temporarily activate it on command by holding Shift + Control.Add folders to the dock Credit: Pranay Parab You can add browsable folders to your Mac’s dock, as long as the folder is in the Favorites bar in Finder. Open Finder and locate the folder you want to add and drag it to the Favorites bar in the left pane. Right-click any folder in the Favorites bar and select Add to Dock. Here's the fun part: you can use this trick to group a bunch of apps into a single dock icon, which is great when you have a few apps that you want to keep in the dock, but you don't need them every single day. The trick is to go to the Applications folder in Finder and move the apps to a new folder. Just give the folder a name, move it to the Favorites Bar, and add it to the dock. You're all set!Add spacers to the dockYou can go a little beyond the options macOS gives you and add a few spacers, or blank spaces, to your dock to help organize it. You can use these blank spaces for aesthetics or to group similar apps. To do this, you'll need to use your Mac's Terminal. Press Command-Space, search for Terminal, and open the app. Then, paste and run the following command to add a full-size spacer in the dock.defaults write com.apple.dock persistent-apps -array-add '{tile-data={}; tile-type="spacer-tile";}' && killall DockIf you want a smaller spacer, use this command instead.defaults write com.apple.dock persistent-apps -array-add '{"tile-type"="small-spacer-tile";}' && killall DockFor more than one spacer, simply re-run your chosen command. The good news is that this is the only time you'll need the Terminal. Once you have your spacer, simply drag it around to change its position in the dock, or drop it outside the dock to remove it.Change app icons to make the dock more visually pleasingYou can also customize the dock by simply changing various app icons. This can make it look more pleasant or help it fit a particular theme. The best way to do this is to open your favorite apps and see if they let you change their app icons. If not, check out my guide on replacing macOS app icons, which highlights both a built-in method and one third-party app that makes it easier to change app icons. For alternative icons, a good resource is macOSicons.com.Use third-party apps to access hidden dock settings Credit: Pranay Parab Your Mac doesn't always make it easy to find everything you can do with it. Sometimes, you need to run a few Terminal commands to access hidden features (such as the spacers I just highlighted), and even then, some features aren't user-accessible at all. For more control, consider trying Mac apps that unlock these hidden features for you, such as TinkerTool (free) or Supercharge ($11). I've written about TinkerTool before, and my colleague Khamosh Pathak has covered Supercharge. Both apps have a few useful options for tweaking your dock, such as the ability to remove the delay before macOS reveals your hidden dock, or dimming the icons of hidden apps. TinkerTool also makes it easier to add spacers to the dock, and it even allows you to lock the dock, so that the positions of icons and spacers can't be changed. Supercharge, meanwhile, has a feature that directly opens dock folders in Finder, instead of showing their contents right in the dock. Use a dedicated dock customization appIf your goal is only to tweak the dock and nothing else, you may be better-served by a dedicated dock customization app. This type of an app will allow you to make cosmetic and functional changes to the dock, but won't be useful if you want other systemwide tweaks. Two good examples are DockFlow ($5.60) and uBar ($30). DockFlow lets you create presets for your dock. You can think of it like creating various profiles such as work, gaming, education, social media, etc. For each of these presets, you can drop a few apps into them and quickly switch between them as needed. uBar, meanwhile, focuses on making the dock look like the Windows taskbar, which could be useful if you're moving operating systems. 

After the Nintendo Switch, the Steam Deck might be the most impressive gaming handheld of the last decade. It brings Steam games—most of which were initially designed to run on Windows PCs—to a remarkably designed portable device. The only problem? Battery life can be rough on some games. If you're struggling to stay charged, here are some tips to help you out.When it comes to your Steam Deck's battery life, you're going to notice a lot of variability, even from one game to another. AAA games that rely on high-end GPUs will typically guzzle power. On laptops or desktops, that's usually not as much of a concern, but on the Steam Deck—when those games run at all—they can burn through the battery quickly.So, while we have plenty of tips to get the best battery life, it's important to keep in mind some games will simply burn through your power no matter what. Fortunately, SteamOS is already pretty power efficient (at least compared to other operating systems), and there are several handy tools to help.First, learn what, exactly, is draining your batteryThere are a few common culprits for battery drain in games, and it's helpful to understand them before diving into solutions. This is because what works for one game with minimal performance impact, could make another game unplayable. With that in mind, here are a few key things that drain your battery:Your hardware settings. The display on your Steam Deck is always a pretty big battery drain, and turning down the brightness can help. Wireless radios like wifi or Bluetooth are always sipping power, even if you're not using them, so you can sometimes turn these off if you don't need them.Your refresh rate and FPS. Your Steam Deck has to update the screen dozens of times every second, and for some games it might be way more than necessary. 60 to 90 frames per second might be necessary for a fast-paced game like Doom Eternal, but it's overkill for Stardew Valley.Your processor's TDP. Thermal Design Power (or TDP) is a complicated metric, but it serves as a shorthand for how much power your processor is using. On the Steam Deck, you can limit this directly, which is a blunt way of saving battery, but it can help sometimes.The most useful tool to help you diagnose your biggest battery drains is the Performance Overlay. Press the three-dot menu button while in a game and navigate to the Performance section and you'll see an option to enable this overlay. There are several levels of detail, ranging from a simple frame rate counter, to real-time power consumption and temperature readouts. The Performance tab is also where you'll find several useful features we'll discuss (under Advanced View), so it's good to make friends with this tab.Dive into your game's display settingsWhile the Steam Deck has a lot of useful features for managing battery life, you're still going to find some of your best options in your game's settings. Most games have presets to lower graphics settings with one quick toggle—like switching from Ultra to Medium—and some have even more advanced settings.This is particularly important to keep in mind if you play Steam games on multiple devices. Some games will try to sync settings between them, which can lead to your game rendering at a higher resolution or frame rate than the Steam Deck is even capable of displaying.In general, here are a few settings you should take a look at:Resolution: The Steam Deck has a 1280x800 resolution, so unless you're using an external monitor, there's no reason to set your game to a higher resolution. Most games won't let you go higher anyway, but it's worth it to double check. You can also go lower for some games, if you don't need as much detail.Frame rate: Many games offer the ability to cap how many frames the game generates, even if your display is capable of showing more. This can have a substantial impact on your battery life, especially for games that need to perform a lot of complex calculations (like graphics-heavy shooters) for every new frame.Graphical presets: If your game has a preset slider, try starting on the lowest preset and working your way up to see how the game performs. The Performance Overlay can be a huge help here, to see how much power your system is drawing on different presets. If your eye can't tell the difference, but your battery can, drop the settings.You can play around to find the right balance for you, and it will vary greatly by game. In some games, you might want more graphical detail, but fewer frames per second, while others would benefit from the exact opposite. Try a few options to see what works best.Adjust your refresh rate and FPS in tandem with the Frame Limit sliderAs mentioned above, the number of times your game updates the screen per second can be a huge factor in battery drain. This is affected by both the screen's refresh rate (how many times the display physically updates the pixel you see) and your game's frames per second (or FPS, the number of times the GPU generates a new frame per second). To complicate matters further, your refresh rate can have an effect on your input latency, meaning it's important to strike a delicate balance.To simplify this, the Steam Deck has a slider called Frame Limit that can impose a limit on how many frames your game displays and strike that balance for you. It automatically adjusts your refresh rate to be evenly divisible by the FPS limit, avoiding unnecessary (and asynchronous) refreshes, while still maintaining the highest refresh rate possible to reduce input lag.It's a workaround that's placed somewhat late in the pipeline, and it's sometimes better to adjust your game's settings directly, but it simplifies a complicated process. If you'd rather adjust your display's refresh rate directly, you can toggle Disable Frame Limit and adjust the refresh rate from 45Hz to 90Hz directly. Keep in mind, though, you might still need to adjust some game settings to avoid generating frames your display will just throw out.Put a cap on your Thermal Design Power (TDP), if you mustTweaking your game's graphics settings can adjust your power consumption with scalpel-like precision. By comparison, the TDP limit is a hammer. But even hammers have their uses. By design, the TDP slider on the Steam Deck will put a hard limit on how much power the CPU/GPU can draw from the battery. You can't get much more direct battery savings than that.The problem is that games typically, you know, need power. And even games with really fine-grain settings don't generally ask the user to decide how much electricity to draw. For some, especially graphics-heavy games, putting a hard limit on TDP can cause massive performance drops or even game crashes.Less demanding games, though, can benefit from playing with this setting. A useful rule of thumb is that if the game you're playing is already struggling to maintain a consistent frame rate, try something else before touching TDP. But for games like Stardew Valley, where you're never really concerned with frame rate, you can experiment with lowering the TDP limit to 10W or even 5W to see how well the game performs.Of course, setting a TDP limit only matters if it's below what your game was using in the first place. This is another area where the performance overlay comes in handy. You can get a sense of how much power your system is drawing during your games, and use that to gauge how low you want your TDP limit to be.Don't forget per-game battery setting profilesOn top of all these settings, you can also set game-specific profiles to change your battery settings automatically based on the title you're playing. I can't recommend this feature enough, especially if you tend to play games with very different power demands. Few things are more annoying than forgetting you set a low TDP limit for a simple game, then launching a more demanding game that strains against that limit.To use this, it's one simple toggle on the Performance tab. Enable "Use per-game profile" and the Steam Deck will automatically create a profile for every game you use. You can disable this toggle to switch back to the default, if you ever decide you prefer one consistent profile.Keep in mind the profiles only account for the Steam Deck's settings itself, not any game-specific settings. But it's still a handy tool. It can be overwhelming to keep track of all the different buttons and knobs you can fiddle with to get extra battery life, but the Steam Deck manages to balance a ton of customization options with the simplicity of straight-forward, user-friendly tools so you can game longer.

Deal  When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Here’s how it works. Hisense U6 Smart Fire TVs are at their lowest prices ever Fiza Ali Neowin @Fiza_Aliii · May 31, 2025 14:48 EDT Ahead of Father's Day, Hisense is offering five variants of the U6 Series Smart Fire TV (2025 model) at their all-time low prices. The U6 Series offers a 4K UHD (3,840×2,160) resolution while its backlight system comprises approximately 1,000 mini-LEDs arranged in a Full Array Local Dimming configuration. Colour reproduction is achieved through QLED quantum-dot technology, enabling the display to render over one billion colours. Furthermore, the panel supports a wide colour gamut, which results in more accurate renditions of natural hues. A Total HDR Solution ensures compatibility with multiple HDR formats, including Dolby Vision IQ, HDR 10 + Adaptive, HDR 10, HDR 10 + Gaming, and HLG. At the core of the U6 Series is the Hi-View AI Engine, a chipset that handles advanced picture processing tasks. These include an AI-powered 4K Upscaler, AI Smooth Motion, and AI Sports Mode. Collectively, these features ensure that fine details are reproduced with greater clarity. For gaming, the TV offers Game Mode Pro, which supports a native 144Hz refresh rate and Variable Refresh Rate (VRR) ranging from 48Hz to 144Hz. An on-screen Game Bar allows users to toggle VRR settings, monitor input lag, and access gaming presets directly. Connectivity options include four HDMI ports (two HDMI 2.1 and two HDMI 2.0), one of which supports eARC via HDMI 1, two USB ports (one USB 3.0 and one USB 2.0), an Ethernet (LAN) port and an optical digital audio output. Moreover, wireless connectivity comprises Wi-Fi 6 and Bluetooth 5.2. The U6 Series runs on the Fire TV platform with Alexa built in, granting access to a library of streaming apps and voice control functionality. Audio is enhanced by Dolby Atmos, and the unit features a 2.1-channel surround-sound configuration. Additional capabilities include noise-reduction processing, closed caption support, a sleep timer, and parental control functions. 55" Hisense U6 Series Mini-LED 4K Smart Fire TV: $528.99 (Amazon US) 34% off 65" Hisense U6 Series Mini-LED 4K Smart Fire TV: $698.99 (Amazon US) 30% off 75" Hisense U6 Series Mini-LED 4K Smart Fire TV: $898.99 (Amazon US) 31% off 85" Hisense U6 Series Mini-LED 4K Smart Fire TV: $1,299.99 (Amazon US) 35% off 100" Hisense U6 Series Mini-LED 4K Smart Fire TV: $2,599.99 (Amazon US) This Amazon deal is US-specific and not available in other regions unless specified. If you don't like it or want to look at more options, check out the Amazon US deals page here. Get Prime (SNAP), Prime Video, Audible Plus or Kindle / Music Unlimited. Free for 30 days. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. Tags Report a problem with article Follow @NeowinFeed

3D printer manufacturer Bambu Lab has issued a new update after an early fix was withdrawn. Termed a critical calibration bug, the company has acted swiftly to deliver new code to its many users. The Shenzhen-based company has now released firmware version V01.01.02.07 for its H2D 3D printer through its Public Beta Program. Rolled out on May 23, this update introduces a comprehensive set of new features, performance enhancements, and critical bug fixes designed to elevate print quality, expand hardware compatibility, and offer users greater control. The release builds on feedback gathered from earlier beta phases. The Bambu Lab H2D Laser Full Combo in a workshop. Image via Bambu Lab. Features and Improvements Firmware V01.01.02.07 adds native support for the CyberBrick time-lapse kit. It also expands the H2D’s onboard AI failure detection system, now giving users the ability to individually toggle detection functions for nozzle clumping, spaghetti printing, air printing, and purge chute pile-ups from the printer’s interface. Hardware compatibility has been further extended. The AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT systems now support RFID-based automatic matching of drying parameters and can perform drying operations without rotating spools. Additionally, the Laser & Cut module can now initiate tasks directly from USB drive files, improving workflow support. Performance updates include improved foreign object detection on the smooth PEI plate, better regulation of heatbed temperatures, enhanced first-layer quality, more reliable chamber temperature checks before printing begins, and improved accuracy of laser module flame detection. The update also enhances the accuracy of nozzle clumping and nozzle camera dirty detection, while optimizing the pre-purging strategy. A collision issue between the nozzle flow blocker and nozzle wiper—previously triggered during flow dynamics calibration—has been resolved. Calibration reliability for the liveview camera has also improved, and issues with pre-extrusion lines sticking to prints during layer transitions have been addressed. Bambu Lab H2D Launch. Image via Bambu Lab. However, two known issues remain in this beta release: detection of filament PTFE tube detachment is currently disabled, and users cannot adjust heatbed temperature via the Bambu Handy app. The latter is expected to be fixed in a future app update. This version replaces V01.01.02.04, which was briefly released on May 20 before being withdrawn due to a critical calibration bug. That earlier version caused the right nozzle to crash into the wiper during left-nozzle calibration, damaging the printer. The firmware also temporarily disabled filament detachment detection. Bambu Lab quickly pulled the update and advised users to revert to the previous stable firmware while working on a corrected release—now realized in version V01.01.02.07. Accessing the Firmware To access the beta firmware, users can opt into the Public Beta Program through the Bambu Handy app by navigating to the “Me” section and selecting “Beta Firmware Program.” Once enrolled, the update will be rolled out gradually. Participants can leave the program at any time and revert to the most recent stable firmware version. Bambu Lab recommends updating Bambu Studio Presets before installing the firmware to ensure full compatibility. Full technical documentation and the official changelog are available on Bambu Lab’s website. Bambu Lab Hardware Line: H2D and Beyond The new firmware update applies to the H2D 3D printer, Bambu Lab’s flagship desktop manufacturing system unveiled in March 2025. Designed for professional users, the H2D offers the company’s largest build volume to date—350 x 320 x 325 mm—and includes two new AMS systems with integrated filament drying. Dual-nozzle extrusion and servo-driven precision deliver high accuracy, while a 350°C hotend and 65°C heated chamber allow reliable printing with high-performance, fiber-reinforced materials. With a toolhead speed of up to 1000 mm/s and acceleration of 20,000 mm/s², the H2D is built for productivity without compromising quality. The Bambu Lab H2D’s digital cutter. Image via Bambu Lab. Bambu Lab’s broader portfolio also includes the X1E, released in 2023 as an enterprise-grade upgrade to its X1 series. Developed with professional and engineering applications in mind, the X1E features LAN-only connectivity for secure, offline operation, enhanced air filtration, and precise thermal regulation. An increased maximum nozzle temperature expands its material compatibility, making it suitable for demanding industrial applications. At its core, the X1E builds on the proven performance of the X1 Carbon, extending the system’s capabilities for use in sensitive or regulated environments. Take the 3DPI Reader Survey — shape the future of AM reporting in under 5 minutes. Who won the 2024 3D Printing Industry Awards? Subscribe to the3D Printing Industry newsletter to keep up with the latest 3D printing news. You can also follow us on LinkedIn, and subscribe to the 3D Printing Industry Youtube channel to access more exclusive content. Featured image shows Bambu Lab H2D Launch. Image via Bambu Lab. Paloma Duran Paloma Duran holds a BA in International Relations and an MA in Journalism. Specializing in writing, podcasting, and content and event creation, she works across politics, energy, mining, and technology. With a passion for global trends, Paloma is particularly interested in the impact of technology like 3D printing on shaping our future.

Cozy Games Free & Open-Source Godot Add-Ons / News, Resources / May 31, 2025 / Add-On, Godot The folks over at Cozy Cube Games have provided a GitHub repository that offers a fantastic collection of tools to enhance your Godot game development workflow. Here’s a look at 14 of the add-ons you can find there, all of which are available under the MIT open-source license and implemented using 100% GDScript. The repository consists of the following free add-ons for the Godot game engine: area_lights: Enhances lighting capabilities within your scenes. control_proxies: doodle_texture:  Create textures directly in Godot by doodling or sketching, perfect for prototyping and “sticky notes”. editor_relays: This add-on allows you to manage the Godot Editor from your application at run-time. gizmo_presets: Gain precise control over the visibility of Gizmos in Godot. Show/hide them all, or create and toggle your own custom presets. light_shafts: Add breathtaking volumetric light scattering effects, often known as “god rays,” to your scenes. lines_and_trails_3d: Easily create and manage dynamic 3D lines and trail effects for projectiles, movement paths, and more. manual_multimesh: Optimize your scenes by gaining more direct control over MultiMeshInstances, perfect for rendering many similar meshes efficiently. nine_patch_mesh: Create scalable 3D nine-patch meshes, ideal for flexible UI elements or environment pieces with repeating borders and centers. parallel_scene_views: Boost your productivity by viewing and interacting with multiple scene views simultaneously within the editor. preview_2d: Seamlessly integrate 2D and 3D workflows by adding a button to preview your 2D viewport directly from a 3D scene. procedural_texture_baker: Generate and bake unique procedural textures directly within Godot, saving time and adding variety. tile_path_3d: Effortlessly instance 3D objects along a spline path. Perfect for creating paths, roads, fences, and other repeating environmental details. transform_clusters: Once again, not really sure the use case on this one Key Links Cozy Cube Games Godot Add-Ons GitHub Repository Cozy Cube Games Homepage You can learn more about the Cozy Cube Games add-ons for the Godot game engine as well as see many of them in action in the video below.