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How Perfumers Evoke Interiors in Their Scents
Scent is one of the most powerful ways to immortalize a moment in time, many thanks to the olfactory system’s direct line to the amygdala and hippocampus. It’s why a whiff of a familiar fragrance note can trigger déjà vu or nostalgia for something or somewhere long gone. And while perfumers often look to far-flung destinations for fragrance inspiration, some of the most compelling scents take cues from the spaces we frequent, like the interiors of a home or a hotel room.When perfumer Jérôme Epinette, the nose behind all of Byredo’s iconic scents, was drumming up inspiration for the brand’s iconic library-inspired Bibliothèque scent, he began with a leather couch, which he associates with sitting down to relax with a book. “That’s how I came up with the biotech, which have a little bit of violet, suede, leather, and wood of course,” he explains. Elsewhere, hints of patchouli are meant to evoke a Mad Men–era image of someone lighting up a cigar among the shelves, he says, “even though we don’t smoke in the library anymore.”Similarly, Abel’s master perfumer Isaac Sinclair had a clear idea of setting when he was creating The Apartment, an interpretation of a Hausmannian Parisian flat overlooking the Arc de Triomphe. Rather than pencil in the framework of a home note for note, The Apartment instead evokes sex appeal and sophistication through gourmand notes of cherry and rum that suggest the after-hours revelry that happens between those very walls. Sinclair says that, unlike other perfumes that revolve around one or two core notes, this fragrance captures a vibe and a sexy atmosphere.He compares the process of constructing a perfume to architecture itself. “Usually you start with a foundation and then you start building on top of that,” he says, rather than going roof-first. Sticking to the storyline is also important for the cohesiveness of a scent, he explains, drawing out the design metaphor. “Sometimes you can add something to a fragrance and it smells amazing, but you’ve actually lost the story.”Danish designer Oliver Gustav, whose studio in Copenhagen features a beautifully curated assortment of furniture and decor from all over the world, also has his own line of scents colored by his love for design and interiors. “I wanted something to bring me back to certain special places and times—sometimes a place with present-day significance, anda place almost ancient but with dreamy and inspirational significance to my work and life as a designer and collector,” he explains of his fragrances.Here a closer look at some of these intriguing scents out there inspired by interiors, along with the stories behind their makeup.Abel Apartment Eau de ParfumTo bottle up the sexy, cosmopolitan allure of Paris, The Apartment needed to match the same energy. Sinclair says the rum note in it came about after plenty of experimentation—and alludes to the debauchery of a long night after-hours—while the cherry that forms the heart of the perfumeis another gourmand note with sultry connotations.Byredo Bibliothèque CandleBibliothèque is one of our favorite candles to recommend as gifts for bookworms and beyond. It plays with contrast through plum and peach notes that Epinette says lend a creaminess to the leather and patchouli at its heart for a well-balanced rendering of a place filled with cushy seating and bound books.Comme des Garcons Odeur 71 Eau de ToiletteComme des Garçon’s oddball Odeur 71 is a slice-of-life perfume inspired by everyday smells you might encounter in an office setting, like the dust on a lightbulb or pencil shavings. It was name-dropped by one of the guest editors for AD’s first Scent Week, DS & Durga cofounder Kavi Moltz, who describes it as an unorthodox perfume that showed her how far you could push the boundaries of fragrance. “It’s the scent I wore before we started DS & Durga—it’s meant to smell like copy machine toner and hot lightbulbs,” Moltz shares."MMXXI" Potpourri on Iron StandAs a designer and collector, Gustav had a special room in mind when creating the scent MMXXI. “It is my own calming living room in a crooked 1638 house where I can withdraw from the bustling world to one of soothing gray tones, beautiful books, deep comfortable chairs, and a crackling fireplace,” he says. He set the scene with notes of worn leather and tabacco, softened by violet to evoke the calm of the space.Vilhelm Parfumerie Room Service Eau de ParfumVilhelm Parfumerie’s Room Service was inspired by Old Hollywood glamour, with actress Greta Garbo as its ultimate muse. The scent places her in New York City’s Carlyle Hotel, draped in satin and drawing a bath topped with flower petals. Notes of musk and sandalwood nod to the sensuality of the scene that’s playing out, while the florals and citrus can be interpreted as a literal spin on the creature comforts of a well-stocked hotel room.Byredo Tree House CandleTree House is another architectural take on a tiny home. Notes of wood and hay bolster this cedar-and-bamboo-heavy fragrance, while earthy notes of myrrh and sandalwood elevate this youthful structure into a sacred place.Maison d'Etto Durban Jane Eau de ParfumMaison D’Etto’s woodsy Durban Jane is less a depiction of a specific house and more of an abstract expression of belonging and comfort. Perfumer Celine Barel captures the “cocoon-like feeling of home” through cedar and sandalwood notes that nod to the bones of a house, plus earthy notes like orris and labdanumthat heighten the cozy factor of this scent.
#how #perfumers #evoke #interiors #their
How Perfumers Evoke Interiors in Their Scents
Scent is one of the most powerful ways to immortalize a moment in time, many thanks to the olfactory system’s direct line to the amygdala and hippocampus. It’s why a whiff of a familiar fragrance note can trigger déjà vu or nostalgia for something or somewhere long gone. And while perfumers often look to far-flung destinations for fragrance inspiration, some of the most compelling scents take cues from the spaces we frequent, like the interiors of a home or a hotel room.When perfumer Jérôme Epinette, the nose behind all of Byredo’s iconic scents, was drumming up inspiration for the brand’s iconic library-inspired Bibliothèque scent, he began with a leather couch, which he associates with sitting down to relax with a book. “That’s how I came up with the biotech, which have a little bit of violet, suede, leather, and wood of course,” he explains. Elsewhere, hints of patchouli are meant to evoke a Mad Men–era image of someone lighting up a cigar among the shelves, he says, “even though we don’t smoke in the library anymore.”Similarly, Abel’s master perfumer Isaac Sinclair had a clear idea of setting when he was creating The Apartment, an interpretation of a Hausmannian Parisian flat overlooking the Arc de Triomphe. Rather than pencil in the framework of a home note for note, The Apartment instead evokes sex appeal and sophistication through gourmand notes of cherry and rum that suggest the after-hours revelry that happens between those very walls. Sinclair says that, unlike other perfumes that revolve around one or two core notes, this fragrance captures a vibe and a sexy atmosphere.He compares the process of constructing a perfume to architecture itself. “Usually you start with a foundation and then you start building on top of that,” he says, rather than going roof-first. Sticking to the storyline is also important for the cohesiveness of a scent, he explains, drawing out the design metaphor. “Sometimes you can add something to a fragrance and it smells amazing, but you’ve actually lost the story.”Danish designer Oliver Gustav, whose studio in Copenhagen features a beautifully curated assortment of furniture and decor from all over the world, also has his own line of scents colored by his love for design and interiors. “I wanted something to bring me back to certain special places and times—sometimes a place with present-day significance, anda place almost ancient but with dreamy and inspirational significance to my work and life as a designer and collector,” he explains of his fragrances.Here a closer look at some of these intriguing scents out there inspired by interiors, along with the stories behind their makeup.Abel Apartment Eau de ParfumTo bottle up the sexy, cosmopolitan allure of Paris, The Apartment needed to match the same energy. Sinclair says the rum note in it came about after plenty of experimentation—and alludes to the debauchery of a long night after-hours—while the cherry that forms the heart of the perfumeis another gourmand note with sultry connotations.Byredo Bibliothèque CandleBibliothèque is one of our favorite candles to recommend as gifts for bookworms and beyond. It plays with contrast through plum and peach notes that Epinette says lend a creaminess to the leather and patchouli at its heart for a well-balanced rendering of a place filled with cushy seating and bound books.Comme des Garcons Odeur 71 Eau de ToiletteComme des Garçon’s oddball Odeur 71 is a slice-of-life perfume inspired by everyday smells you might encounter in an office setting, like the dust on a lightbulb or pencil shavings. It was name-dropped by one of the guest editors for AD’s first Scent Week, DS & Durga cofounder Kavi Moltz, who describes it as an unorthodox perfume that showed her how far you could push the boundaries of fragrance. “It’s the scent I wore before we started DS & Durga—it’s meant to smell like copy machine toner and hot lightbulbs,” Moltz shares."MMXXI" Potpourri on Iron StandAs a designer and collector, Gustav had a special room in mind when creating the scent MMXXI. “It is my own calming living room in a crooked 1638 house where I can withdraw from the bustling world to one of soothing gray tones, beautiful books, deep comfortable chairs, and a crackling fireplace,” he says. He set the scene with notes of worn leather and tabacco, softened by violet to evoke the calm of the space.Vilhelm Parfumerie Room Service Eau de ParfumVilhelm Parfumerie’s Room Service was inspired by Old Hollywood glamour, with actress Greta Garbo as its ultimate muse. The scent places her in New York City’s Carlyle Hotel, draped in satin and drawing a bath topped with flower petals. Notes of musk and sandalwood nod to the sensuality of the scene that’s playing out, while the florals and citrus can be interpreted as a literal spin on the creature comforts of a well-stocked hotel room.Byredo Tree House CandleTree House is another architectural take on a tiny home. Notes of wood and hay bolster this cedar-and-bamboo-heavy fragrance, while earthy notes of myrrh and sandalwood elevate this youthful structure into a sacred place.Maison d'Etto Durban Jane Eau de ParfumMaison D’Etto’s woodsy Durban Jane is less a depiction of a specific house and more of an abstract expression of belonging and comfort. Perfumer Celine Barel captures the “cocoon-like feeling of home” through cedar and sandalwood notes that nod to the bones of a house, plus earthy notes like orris and labdanumthat heighten the cozy factor of this scent.
#how #perfumers #evoke #interiors #their
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