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Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti: A Radical Expression of Horology and Sculpture
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The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is a striking mechanical sculpture that is worn on the wrist. This watch is the result of a collaboration between Bulgari, known for its mastery in jewelry design, and MB&F, which is celebrated for its unconventional approach to watchmaking. Together, they have created something that breaks away from the norms of traditional horology.Designer: Bulgari x MB&F SerpentiThis is their second project together after the Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra, but this time, they have taken the Serpenti concept into a new realm of design. The watch captures the essence of a serpent, blending organic fluidity with the precision of high-end mechanics. The case, with its smooth curves and transparent sapphire windows, reveals an intricate movement inside, turning it into a timekeeping machine that feels alive. This interpretation of the Serpenti goes beyond conventional aesthetics, pushing the boundaries of what a watch can be.Design Process: Blending Biomorphic and Automotive InfluencesThe design of the Serpenti involved an unconventional approach, deviating from traditional watchmaking norms. The team, led by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Maximilian Bsser, adopted a biomorphic design, taking inspiration from the streamlined form of a serpents head. The shape presented significant engineering challenges, particularly with the cases complex curves and the integration of five sapphire crystal windows, which had to fit seamlessly while maintaining water resistance.Unlike conventional watch cases, which follow a round or angular format, the Serpenti required hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models before reaching its final form. The stepped sapphire crystals on the case were inspired by automotive rear window flaps, adding to the watchs futuristic appeal.Color Variations: Three Distinct IdentitiesThe Serpenti is available in three unique variations, each exuding a distinct personality:Titanium with Blue Domes: A futuristic execution that emphasizes lightness and precision. The combination of a titanium case with vibrant blue luminescent domes creates an icy, high-tech aesthetic.18K Rose Gold with Green Domes: This iteration leans into Bulgaris luxury roots, with warm rose gold tones accentuated by rich green hour and minute domes. The play between color and material evokes a sense of heritage blended with modernity.Black PVD-Coated Stainless Steel with Red Domes: The most aggressive design of the trio, featuring a stealthy black PVD finish contrasted by bold red luminescent numerals. This version exudes mystery and power, mirroring the dangerous allure of a serpent.Each model is fitted with rotating hour and minute domes, which serve as the primary method of displaying time. These lightweight aluminum domes are coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring excellent legibility in various lighting conditions. The rotation of these domes mimics the hypnotic gaze of a snake, reinforcing the watchs reptilian inspiration.Mechanical Animation: A Dynamic Timekeeping ExperienceA defining feature of the Serpenti is its mechanical animation, which brings the timepiece to life. The revolving hour and minute domes, positioned like a snakes eyes, introduce a kinetic aspect to the display. Constructed from lightweight aluminum, these domes were milled to extreme thinness to reduce weight and optimize rotation. This process required specialized milling techniques to ensure precision.The integration of Super-LumiNova on the domes enhances nighttime visibility, making the watch as visually compelling in low light as it is in daylight. This moving display sets the Serpenti apart from conventional watch designs, transforming the reading of time into an engaging, almost hypnotic experience.The Movement: A Micro-Mechanical PowerhouseBeneath its sculptural case, the hand-wound mechanical movement is a true work of art. Engineered by MB&F, the movement is driven by dual mainspring barrels, delivering a 45-hour power reserve. The entire mechanism is on full display, thanks to the sapphire crystal caseback, allowing enthusiasts to admire the intricate network of gears and bridges.One of the movements defining features is its differential gear system, designed specifically to allow the domes to rotate seamlessly. This innovation ensures smooth operation without affecting overall movement stability. The bridges and plates feature a mix of brushed, polished, and sandblasted finishes, highlighting the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into each piece.Engineering and Manufacturing Challenges: Precision in ComplexityThe Serpentis intricate construction pushed the boundaries of modern watchmaking. Traditional machining techniques were insufficient for crafting its organic case shape, leading Bulgari and MB&F to rely on advanced multi-axis CNC machining. The sapphire crystals required the precision of 5-axis 3D milling, a labor-intensive process that limited production capacity.Beyond shaping the case, ensuring water resistance posed another hurdle. With five exposed sapphire windows, achieving a 30-meter water resistance rating demanded an innovative sealing approach that safeguarded the movement without compromising its visual appeal.Another challenge lay in balancing the weight of the rotating aluminum domes. They had to be light enough for smooth movement while remaining sturdy against external shocks. MB&Fs expertise in micro-mechanical engineering played a crucial role in integrating an ultra-precise gear train that delivered fluid motion without excessive wear over time.Limited Production and ExclusivityGiven the complexity of its design, production is restricted to six to eight movements per month, reinforcing its rarity as a collectors piece. This meticulous approach extends the full production run beyond a year, further enhancing its exclusivity.Only 99 pieces will be produced, divided equally among the three color variants. Pricing reflects its ultra-luxury positioning, with the titanium and black PVD versions ranging from $135,000 to $148,000, while the rose gold variant commands between $155,000 and $170,000. This level of craftsmanship, combined with the difficulty of production, cements the Serpenti as a rare acquisition for those who appreciate cutting-edge independent watchmaking.Final Thoughts: A Masterpiece of Horological ArtThe Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti redefines traditional luxury watchmaking. It showcases the collaboration of two powerhouse brands that bring forward an innovative vision. Rather than reinterpreting an icon, this creation reshapes the Serpentis legacy while maintaining its historical essence.Collectors and enthusiasts looking for groundbreaking design will find the Serpenti to be more than a watch. It is an artistic and mechanical expression, transforming timekeeping into a dynamic visual experience. Every detail, from the sculptural case to the rotating domes, showcases a commitment to precision and creativity, making it a true representation of horological artistry.The post Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti: A Radical Expression of Horology and Sculpture first appeared on Yanko Design.
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